400 sbc in monte

[85montecl]

yes i agree with a longer rod being better for rpm, but on a budget put arp bolts in the bottom will help with more reliability and some piece of mind too if you are set on stock length rods and pistons. That being said upgrading to a 5.7 rod and matching pistons is only around $300 more

I do have a 350 shortblock i could probably jus use rods out of that

 

[crotchss]

Yes, if you have a set just sitting around you definitely could use them. Let me run this by you too, as I just went through this with a buddy of mine, who I am building a engine for. I don't know what your machine shops charge around your area, but theses are the prices around here.
crank grind- $111
re-size rods- $96
press pistons on rods- $68
balance assembly- $165
bore block- $135
clean block- $55
rework heads- $400

So, my buddy wanted to redo the 350 sbc in his 72 GMC pickup, but hop it up a bit over stock. With the upgrades he wanted I listed it all out plus the prices of the rings, bearings, pistons, ect. in the kit, plus a new balancer since his is shot. It came out to be around $660 or so for the needed machine work to the rotating assembly plus parts. So I told him why don't we just order a balanced Eagle SIR kit and stroke it to a 383, the extra torque would help to move the truck of the line better and it would be a "snappier" street engine. So that's what we are doing, the cost was only $60 more and the whole rotating assembly will be new including balancer and flexplate. Plus all the parts are stronger than the OEM parts. The only thing he needs now is the block punched and cleaned since we are also slapping on aluminum heads.

Sorry that got kinda long winded. I guess what I am suggesting to you is, pencil it out with your machine work and parts costs, it may be about the same cost to put in a SIR kit and be done. I know a good set of hypereutectic pistons alone for a 406 are going to run around $160-$300 depending on flats or dish. A SIR kit can can be bought for under $800 shipped from many retailers, I have used theses in many friends and customers engines with good results, never any issues. Just something to think about when you finally pull the trigger on the build.

 

[85montecl]

Yes, if you have a set just sitting around you definitely could use them. Let me run this by you too, as I just went through this with a buddy of mine, who I am building a engine for. I don't know what your machine shops charge around your area, but theses are the prices around here.
crank grind- $111
re-size rods- $96
press pistons on rods- $68
balance assembly- $165
bore block- $135
clean block- $55
rework heads- $400

So, my buddy wanted to redo the 350 sbc in his 72 GMC pickup, but hop it up a bit over stock. With the upgrades he wanted I listed it all out plus the prices of the rings, bearings, pistons, ect. in the kit, plus a new balancer since his is shot. It came out to be around $660 or so for the needed machine work to the rotating assembly plus parts. So I told him why don't we just order a balanced Eagle SIR kit and stroke it to a 383, the extra torque would help to move the truck of the line better and it would be a "snappier" street engine. So that's what we are doing, the cost was only $60 more and the whole rotating assembly will be new including balancer and flexplate. Plus all the parts are stronger than the OEM parts. The only thing he needs now is the block punched and cleaned since we are also slapping on aluminum heads.

Sorry that got kinda long winded. I guess what I am suggesting to you is, pencil it out with your machine work and parts costs, it may be about the same cost to put in a SIR kit and be done. I know a good set of hypereutectic pistons alone for a 406 are going to run around $160-$300 depending on flats or dish. A SIR kit can can be bought for under $800 shipped from many retailers, I have used theses in many friends and customers engines with good results, never any issues. Just something to think about when you finally pull the trigger on the build.

Yes, if you have a set just sitting around you definitely could use them. Let me run this by you too, as I just went through this with a buddy of mine, who I am building a engine for. I don't know what your machine shops charge around your area, but theses are the prices around here.
crank grind- $111
re-size rods- $96
press pistons on rods- $68
balance assembly- $165
bore block- $135
clean block- $55
rework heads- $400

So, my buddy wanted to redo the 350 sbc in his 72 GMC pickup, but hop it up a bit over stock. With the upgrades he wanted I listed it all out plus the prices of the rings, bearings, pistons, ect. in the kit, plus a new balancer since his is shot. It came out to be around $660 or so for the needed machine work to the rotating assembly plus parts. So I told him why don't we just order a balanced Eagle SIR kit and stroke it to a 383, the extra torque would help to move the truck of the line better and it would be a "snappier" street engine. So that's what we are doing, the cost was only $60 more and the whole rotating assembly will be new including balancer and flexplate. Plus all the parts are stronger than the OEM parts. The only thing he needs now is the block punched and cleaned since we are also slapping on aluminum heads.

Sorry that got kinda long winded. I guess what I am suggesting to you is, pencil it out with your machine work and parts costs, it may be about the same cost to put in a SIR kit and be done. I know a good set of hypereutectic pistons alone for a 406 are going to run around $160-$300 depending on flats or dish. A SIR kit can can be bought for under $800 shipped from many retailers, I have used theses in many friends and customers engines with good results, never any issues. Just something to think about when you finally pull the trigger on the build.

I also will have to maybe resleeve 2 or 3 of the cylinders as you can see pics of damege on another post i had also try and keep the stock bore. What exactly will lo.ger rods do. Which would have more bottom end stock rods or 350 rods?

 

[crotchss]

The longer rod "stands up" a little straighter as it moves up and down through it's cycle. It decreases the rod angularity so that it puts less force trying to push the piston towards the cylinder wall and more up the cylinder to cut down on side loading. As far as more "bottom end" power, you won't notice a difference really. Looking back at the cam you are wanting to go with it will make peak power up higher in the rpm band and could benefit from the longer rod for longevity when running higher rpm's