'80 442 Vortec swap won't run...

[HotRods442]

Any tips for using rear coolant crossover, like will it negatively affect flow, etc... I'd like to do bypass, but may need pump side for heater hoses to core, and back.
Need to wire in El Camino heater box, after ripping out Stock A/C setup... plus adapt flex hose fed vents, to inner routing box... might be easier to remove dash venting, flex to vents directly...

 

[HotRods442]

After what seems like forever, the Vortec 5.7 engine I built for the 442, is finally ready for test fire... A few checks need done, set timing, make sure wiring is completely properly connected, fuel system checked for proper pressure at quadrajet inlet, etc... Fire it up, run it for a minute, if everything is good, install power steering pump, radiator support, radiator, hoses, etc. Header panel, bleed brakes, prep for test drive...
I know one thing for sure... before I installed pushrods & plugs, I could turn it over by hand, relatively easily... Bolting up torque convertor, wasn't A ton of fun... Turning it required my biggest screwdriver for leverage... Yep, she's got plenty of compression now...

 

[78Delta88]

On your comments of lining up the torque converter bolts, and if you ever do this again, just put in the eight, six, and seven spark plugs. Leave the rest of them out. That will help with make it easier to turn and you're not building compression and all eight cylinders. But it is imperative that the torque converter is properly locked into the front pump as it should then line up the bolts and bolted to the flexplate.

One of the biggest issues that I've seen is bolting it to the flexplate first then drawing up the transmission and securing the transmission to the back of the block. If you do not have that alignment correct you will destroy the pump.

 

[spongbob]

Mix old black oil and gumout or Berryman carb cleaner pour it down motor while cranking you might have pact debris or corrosion or dirt on valves as long as you checked valve lash in other words set to nill to check for pumpup ect...if you truly have zero you got bent valves or holes in pistons as rings and slight valve tightness will not show 0... they might be between 30 and 65....( same as out of time pressure)I've seen it all some nissans will fire up at 65

 

[HotRods442]

Mix old black oil and gumout or Berryman carb cleaner pour it down motor while cranking you might have pact debris or corrosion or dirt on valves as long as you checked valve lash in other words set to nill to check for pumpup ect...if you truly have zero you got bent valves or holes in pistons as rings and slight valve tightness will not show 0... they might be between 30 and 65....( same as out of time pressure)I've seen it all some nissans will fire up at 65

Yeah, I found bent exhaust valves, when I pulled heads, and #4 chamber cracked... got a 2001 head out of a box van to replace cracked one... there was gummy sludge everywhere inside block... I cleaned up block, sitting vertical on Drvr side motor mount.. heads I washed at storage unit, with parts washer, installed new exhaust valves, and stem seals. Thoroughly cleaned pistons, rings & rods, reassembled bottom end, after polishing crank, with 2000grit Emory cloth, installing performance clevite mains with extra .001 clearance, and standard rod bearings... melling high volume oil pump, cloyes single roller timing set, replaced composite timing cover with cast aluminum edelbrock style cover, Speedway hi vol aluminum water pump... and the finned tall valve covers... Doesn't look like a vortec now, with performer rpm style intake, and the accel HEI distributor, with supercoil and module....

 

[HotRods442]

On your comments of lining up the torque converter bolts, and if you ever do this again, just put in the eight, six, and seven spark plugs. Leave the rest of them out. That will help with make it easier to turn and you're not building compression and all eight cylinders. But it is imperative that the torque converter is properly locked into the front pump as it should then line up the bolts and bolted to the flexplate.

One of the biggest issues that I've seen is bolting it to the flexplate first then drawing up the transmission and securing the transmission to the back of the block. If you do not have that alignment correct you will destroy the pump.

I bolted trans to block, with convertor seated, and was nearly a month before I did torque convertor bolts... I could've pulled plugs, to rotate it easier, but given the multiple problems it had, was actually satisfying to have compression make it a touch tougher...
I'll shoot startup, and post video edit...

 

[78Delta88]

I hope you didn't think I was being negative. You do great work, and obviously have the concepts down.

Sometimes my comments are more directed at the latent visitor, maybe ten years from now reading the thread, and finding info or a tip that helps them out.

 

[HotRods442]

I hope you didn't think I was being negative. You do great work, and obviously have the concepts down.

Sometimes my comments are more directed at the latent visitor, maybe ten years from now reading the thread, and finding info or a tip that helps them out.

Actually, I'm ASE certified, have worked on cars since 77... build pcs, remodel houses, among others.... I haven't built a vortec, prior to this one...

 

[HotRods442]

Test Fire... Complete....
70 lbs oil pressure, 4.5 lbs fuel pressure...
IT'S ALIVE...
Now, adjust valves, install radiator support, radiator, hoses, etc., for a warm-up test...
ODD, tried to upload mp4 vid of fire up, 5 times... uploads, not posting...

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

Awesome! It's such a a great feeling when they fire up for the first time...