80s cutlass drag car questions

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Nov 27, 2020
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New member wanting a early to mid 80s cutlass to build for the street and racing. Strip the interior add two kirkey seats a roll bar, fuel cell, junkyard 5.3 that will one day have a turbo, Ford 8.8”, cowl hood and some slicks. In the mean time I’d like to find and see as much as I can if anyone has any insight links, YouTube videos. I’m going to be scanning through here abunch but anything is welcome thanks
 
If less than 800whp, then not much is needed for strengthening if you have installed a 10 point cage.

Putting the car on a diet is much more important as the HP gets lower. A couple of easy places to save weight is the hood and bumper. Converting to manual windows as well, but I can't bring myself to have to crank a window lol.

So, how much power are you looking to add, and how fast do you intend to go?
 
Since your building for the street I question why you would want to strip the interior. Instead of just a roll bar I would suggest a full cage. Sounds like you have future plans do it once do it right. The full cage would add great strength to the frame. Instead of the 8.8 just go 9in. There is a lot that can be done w/ frame bracing (check frame bracing post) highly suggest boxing and rear control arm frame bracing. Give thought to a frame notch.
 
I’d like to go low tens high nines and yeah I just couldn’t think what came stock with factory 9” and disk brakes but my dad said it’s easy enough to add them on. The only reason I’m wanting to really add a cage is to brace the back of the Seats and a harness. Also for the fact that it’d add rigidity to the frame and safety, I’m 6 foot 260 pounds I’m afraid I’d sheer the holes out of them aluminum seats lol. I’ve been watching John docs videos of their car brown sugar on YouTube and I seen where they had braced the rear of the frame after a notch
 
Been 10.29 so far, and he sorta knows what he's doing.
 
Thanks Bruce, but I only know what I know - which I know is far from a lot.

OP - if you’re looking for 9’s, then don’t mess with anything other than a 10 point cage. A lot of tracks will let guys sneak around with low 11’s and high 10’s without certified equipment, but low 10’s and 9’s seems to be the numbers where you you grab their attention.

I’ve only officially been booted once, but been warned most everywhere else. I’ve taken the approach that I want to go fast, not be thrown out everywhere I go - for LEGITIMATE reasons.

And I strongly urge - leave the street racing on unprepped surfaces for those that have a lot less to live for.
 
The only reason I’m wanting to really add a cage is to brace the back of the Seats and a harness
You need to get a rule book and see the specification requirements for the ET you want to run.
I don't know how much experience you have w/ drag racing or fast cars but low 10's - high 9's is quite a step and going to require LOTS of money. There's a few companies out there that make 9 in rears (built to your specs) for the G bodies, I have a Moser in the Regal and QP in the Sonoma.
 
You need to get a rule book and see the specification requirements for the ET you want to run.
I don't know how much experience you have w/ drag racing or fast cars but low 10's - high 9's is quite a step and going to require LOTS of money. There's a few companies out there that make 9 in rears (built to your specs) for the G bodies, I have a Moser in the Regal and QP in the Sonoma.
What do you mean? You can go 8s for 8 grand. It's on the internet; it must be true.
 
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