'83 Hurst Olds battery drain issue

[83hurst-olds]

I have had this car since October and if I leave it for 3 weeks or more my battery goes dead. 4 Weeks and it is stone dead (no dome lights even). I figured it was the battery and it was a small one anyway so I replaced it. It doesn't spark much when I connect the battery (when charged) but I haven't put my ammeter on there to see what the actual draw is. We are getting ready to move so most of my major tools are packed.

On a side note that may or may not be related. The circuit that controls the Cig lighter, clock, and power antenna has an open connection at times, works at times, and shorts out and blows the fuse at times. I currently have the power antenna motor unhooked by the fender since the cable is broken and the motor wants to run all the time. Even when this circuit has a blown fuse, the battery still goes dead so I doubt it is related to that.

The only other thought I have, is that when I sit in the car when in the garage, I hear a very high pitch squeal (dog whistle high). I think it is from the radar function of the alarm (so you can have the T-tops out or windows down and the alarm will sound if someone reaches in). However, I hear that even when the alarm is off. Also, my alarm pager goes off 10 seconds after you enter the car unless you insert the key and turn it on; even with the alarm off... To me, it sounds like the alarm may not quite be right. The radar part sounds faulty as I don't think it should be on unless the alarm is on. The pager may have some valet mode turned on, but my documentation doesn't show anything about it.

Any ideas?

 

[tc1959]

The ammeter is your best bet, you might also want to get a battery tender to keep the battery healthy.

 

[83hurst-olds]

Maybe I can borrow one, because I am afraid my meter is buried in storage. The best way is probably to pull the fuse, then test the load across the fuse terminals with everything off?

I had thought about a battery disconnect, but I hadn't thought about the battery minder/tender idea... Thanks. :wink:

 

[Blake442]

Was the alarm on the car when you bought it, or did you have it installed?

 

[83hurst-olds]

It had a real old barely useable alarm on it. I had an old Alpine alarm that I had in my 442 put in it. I have an extra brain box I could swap in. The alarm was very high end in its day, and really even the new ones don't seem to offer anything that one doesn't do. I had them leave the old one as a decoy, maybe there's something with it too...

 

[MR442]

Been putting up with this since 86 dealer couldn't find issue (as if he wanted to )told radio so I took radio out . still drain ,pulled fuses still drained. Put battery in other car and it sat all winter and started up . Alls I can tell is the ecu .

Car is on charger all time now till roads get nice .

 

[83hurst-olds]

So MR442, you think yours is narrowed down to the ECU?

I have thought about getting a boat-type 12v trickle charger and leaving it connected. I try to drive it every few weeks, but during the winter that isn't always feasable.

Thanks for the idea. I wouldn't have checked it (when I get my meter back, or borrow one).

 

[art]

For draws I always follow the same basic test which is as follows:
With a good battery in the car, remove the ground cable. Bridge between the battery and ground cable with a test light. If you indeed have a draw, it will light up. Start eliminating fuses until it goes out. Re install all fuses except the last one you pulled. Test light should stay dark. If it does, you have narrowed down your draw. If it lit back up, you have more than one draw. Once the circuit has been isolated, sometimes obvious things become clear. Hope this helps.

 

[tc1959]

For draws I always follow the same basic test which is as follows:
With a good battery in the car, remove the ground cable. Bridge between the battery and ground cable with a test light. If you indeed have a draw, it will light up. Start eliminating fuses until it goes out. Re install all fuses except the last one you pulled. Test light should stay dark. If it does, you have narrowed down your draw. If it lit back up, you have more than one draw. Once the circuit has been isolated, sometimes obvious things become clear. Hope this helps.

That works fine ,but if you have a milliamp parasitic draw it wont light the test light, You have to read the amperage not the voltage while checking for a draw.

 

[MR442]

I did this old school trick at one time . No luck what ever it is its not much of draw but enough to kill battery