a/c ?

[83regallimited213]

Hi guys,

New to the site. I just purchased an 83 Regal and trying to get the a/c to work. I purchased a a/c manifold at Harbor Freight it says its for r-12 and r134. My car is still r-12 fitted and I have a few cans of it in my garage. The only ports I see are the ones on the drier and on one of the hoses to the compressor. However I have no clue wich is considered the high side and the low side. PLUS the fittings don't fit the one on the hose from the compressor. Is there an adapter I need? Or is this the wrong place to hook up the gauge. I ran a vacume pump to the one on the drier with the low side hose and it pulled down to -29 but didn't hold once I closed the manifold. So I assume I have a bad leak. Question is where to connect both high and low hoses. I have a feeling I connected the low pressure hose to the high port.. Where is the low port?

 

[Rusty Nutz]

The valve on the dryer is the low side. Your high side valve will be in the smaller aluminum line. And yes you may need a high side adapter. However you don't have to read the high side but I recommend it. But I have been in situations where I could only read the low side and didn't have a problem.

 

[Bonnewagon]

I'm confused. R-12 and R-134 are not compatible and the gauge set is usually for one or the other, they are not interchangeable. Since you got one to fit the low side (on the receiver/drier/accumulator) you must have an R-12 set. The high and low pressure ports are different sizes so you don't mix them up and blow up the gauge set. Yes, if you got 29" vacuum, and it didn't hold, you have a leak. But I wouldn't waste valuable R-12 trying to find it. Get some cheap R-12 replacement with dye and charge the system with that. Then use ultraviolet light to find the leak. Externally clean components will show the dye best, so clean everything first. Once you find the leak then use the R-12. My guess would be the compressor unless there is visible damage to the condenser or lines. EDIT: I just looked at HF site- is the gauge set really an R-12 converted to R-134 with screw-on adapters? Holy cow!

 

[83regallimited213]

I'm confused. R-12 and R-134 are not compatible and the gauge set is usually for one or the other, they are not interchangeable. Since you got one to fit the low side (on the receiver/drier/accumulator) you must have an R-12 set. The high and low pressure ports are different sizes so you don't mix them up and blow up the gauge set. Yes, if you got 29" vacuum, and it didn't hold, you have a leak. But I wouldn't waste valuable R-12 trying to find it. Get some cheap R-12 replacement with dye and charge the system with that. Then use ultraviolet light to find the leak. Externally clean components will show the dye best, so clean everything first. Once you find the leak then use the R-12. My guess would be the compressor unless there is visible damage to the condenser or lines.

I just went to their site. I think you are 100% right. It says its for 134. However the low side port attaches fine without the 134 adapter. Thanks Rusty for clearing that up. The High pressure side does not the hose is to big.. Does anyone know where to find an adapter to make it fit? Also can the r-12 replacement be bought at a local store?

 

[Bonnewagon]

I still think they used generic hoses and then added screw-on R-134 fittings. The R-12 system used screw-on schrader valve type fittings so you lucked out that the low side fit. As Rusty Nutz said the high side isn't really needed for leak testing, only for system operation testing once it's all working right. My car is still R-12 also so I use this stuff. http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm You don't even have to change the mineral oil, it is compatible. You used to be able to get these R-12 replacements at auto stores but I think that has changed. Try a REAL auto store, not a chain.I have had several leaks so losing this is way better than wasting precious R-12.

 

[83regallimited213]

I still think they used generic hoses and then added screw-on R-134 fittings. The R-12 system used screw-on schrader valve type fittings so you lucked out that the low side fit. As Rusty Nutz said the high side isn't really needed for leak testing, only for system operation testing once it's all working right. My car is still R-12 also so I use this stuff. http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm You don't even have to change the mineral oil, it is compatible. You used to be able to get these R-12 replacements at auto stores but I think that has changed. Try a REAL auto store, not a chain.I have had several leaks so losing this is way better than wasting precious R-12.

I took your advice and got on craigslist and got a $10 can of Freeze 12. Put some clips on the ac clutch to suck it in and installed just one can. Ran it for a few minutes and turned it off. Sprayed soapy water to see if I could notice anything on the hoses or connectors found nothing. I then started to do basic maintenance, replacing the carb fuel filter, plug wires and that's when I heard a sssssssss sound. Coming from around the radiator. Clamped the a/c hoses a bit with some hand pressure and low and behold the condenser is leaking something mean. Time to get on google and see what I can find on the cheap lol. At least it wasn't too hard to locate the leak 🙂

I got a new dryer and o rings coming. Since I'm opening up the system I figured might as well change what I can.

 

[83regallimited213]

Quick question? I plan to fully evacuate the system and change the oil in the compressor. I want to make sure I do things right. I have been to every auto parts place I can find, no one has the green and red gasket that goes between the a/c manifold and compressor. Does anyone have a part number or a link? Also what type of oil and how much to add to an empty compressor? I have 5 cans of 14oz r12 so I have enough refrigerant according to what I have found online. Our system takes about 3.25 lbs. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks guys!

 

[Bonnewagon]

Good going! it's always a good idea to change the receiver/drier whenever the system is opened. It is called mineral oil, 525 viscosity. It doesn't sit in any one place but rather travels around in the system, maybe a little puddles here and there. Unless you suspect damage I'd leave the oil alone. It only gets changed with a component replacement, and even then you pour out and measure the old oil and replace the exact amount. Even if you changed the entire system, it's only a very few ounces, factory manual has the amounts per component. Only other situation would be a catastrophic failure where all the freon blew out so fast it carried the oil with it. A pinhole leak does not remove much if any oil. If you want to throw an ounce in just because, it won't hurt anything, but too much oil is a bad thing. What I would replace is the orifice tube especially if it's old. To open the system just to see if it's dirty is silly-might as well just replace it. What red/green gasket? Where the hoses attach to the compressor? Isn't it two O-rings/gaskets? Look at RockAuto- they have lots of AC parts, or check 4-Seasons-they have everything. Is this it? FOUR SEASONS Part # 24340 A/C Compressor Gasket
Suction/Dischrg Gasket SEALING WASHER - ONE 5/8" & ONE 3/4" WASHER - BLUE; Base Model

$4.22
FOUR SEASONS Part # 24336 A/C Compressor Gasket
Suction/Dischrg Gasket SEALING WASHER - TWO 5/8" THICK WASHERS w/INSERTS - BLUE; Base Model (Only 10 Remaining) EDIT- book says total 6oz oil for whole system. If replacing compressor, drain, measure, refill with same plus 1oz. I see two O-rings between the manifold and compressor.

 

[83regallimited213]

Good going! it's always a good idea to change the receiver/drier whenever the system is opened. It is called mineral oil, 525 viscosity. It doesn't sit in any one place but rather travels around in the system, maybe a little puddles here and there. Unless you suspect damage I'd leave the oil alone. It only gets changed with a component replacement, and even then you pour out and measure the old oil and replace the exact amount. Even if you changed the entire system, it's only a very few ounces, factory manual has the amounts per component. Only other situation would be a catastrophic failure where all the freon blew out so fast it carried the oil with it. A pinhole leak does not remove much if any oil. If you want to throw an ounce in just because, it won't hurt anything, but too much oil is a bad thing. What I would replace is the orifice tube especially if it's old. To open the system just to see if it's dirty is silly-might as well just replace it. What red/green gasket? Where the hoses attach to the compressor? Isn't it two O-rings/gaskets? Look at RockAuto- they have lots of AC parts, or check 4-Seasons-they have everything. Is this it? FOUR SEASONS Part # 24340 A/C Compressor Gasket
Suction/Dischrg Gasket SEALING WASHER - ONE 5/8" & ONE 3/4" WASHER - BLUE; Base Model

$4.22
FOUR SEASONS Part # 24336 A/C Compressor Gasket
Suction/Dischrg Gasket SEALING WASHER - TWO 5/8" THICK WASHERS w/INSERTS - BLUE; Base Model (Only 10 Remaining) EDIT- book says total 6oz oil for whole system. If replacing compressor, drain, measure, refill with same plus 1oz. I see two O-rings between the manifold and compressor.

Bonewaggon! you are the MAN! that's exactly what I was looking for!

Just ordered along with an a/c condenser on ebay for 67 + tax.
I was searching for an orifice tube, but im confused. There is one for like $3 bucks then they have one for 40+ that says its for 105+ plus weather. Is there really a difference? I'm in Tempe AZ. Gets pretty darn hot lol.

 

[Bonnewagon]

I think that is a self-adjusting orifice tube.I can't really comment on that as I live in NYC and it doesn't get as hot as by you. You probably should research that or start a new topic. There are quite a few guys here from Arizona too.