Added Some Videos to my Streetfire account

[busdriver]

I was just kicking around the ideas on your fuel system, keep gathering info from respectable sources until you can afford to do it right. You could still use your system at lower power levels with the pieces you currently have until you can afford better stuff, maybe a 75 shot in the first kit and not worry with the 2nd stage.

In regards to timing, depending on your set up, the best way is to use a rear wheel dyno and adjust the timing until you achieve the best #s. In my personal experience a properly tuned engine will perform best at 38 to 40 degrees of total timing. Without being able to verify the #s, 36 degrees total is a good safe setting. Check your plugs after a run to see how close your tune up is, do a search on plug reading and study the info provided, you can learn alot from your plugs.

40 degrees is somewhat aggressive if you are producing compression levels higher than 9.5 to 1 or greater using pump gas. Remember detonation is your enemy and can damage even the healthiest built engine if you allow it to happen. Aluminum cylinder heads will tolerate a bit more compression on pump gas, if thats what you are running.

Keep gathering info and comparing notes to avoid the pitfalls associated with this sport, it can save you lots of money and time in the long run. Always take the time to do things right and recheck all your work, you'll enjoy your car alot more, believe me I have done some stupid sh*t in the past and ruined some really good parts. I hope this helps, remember that I'm a bit of a conservative due to my budget, if I hit the Lottery, look the freak out .....Peace

 

[JESSE]

videos

i burnt a hole in #7 in my 350 using a 75 hit an a100 in the second stage an turned a 12.22... my 383 can do that on the motor so i don't think i'll try until i get the fuel worked out....i've got srp forged pistons that are 11.0 compression ...with the stock vortecs,i do put some 110 in the tank at the strip

the hook up is really coming along good..there maybe some more in it..i got some qa1 single adjustable shocks up front an some lakewood 50/50 in the rear...i've set the fronts at 3 clicks and noticed a big difference in the rise..the car felt (tame) off the line..not as exciting as before...

i've got another question, since you use your dyno to tune your car...did you have to change your shift points? the reason i ask is most of the mags that have a set up like mine says the peak hp and torque are at different rpms... and i'am thinking i need to shift at high torque and not hp

i tried to shift at 6200 and it just ran 12.30s....so i went back to short shifting1-2 and 2-3 at 6000 and went in the 20's what do you think?...jesse

 

[busdriver]

When establishing a shift point for a certain combo using the dyno, you just shift about 200 rpm before the hp starts to fall off at the end of the pull, then head out to the track and see how it works. On my SBO in my car it peaks at 6K, so I shift it at 5800. By the time I see the light move the shifter and the event occurs I've reached the max rpm of 6K.

In the past I had always just gone by feel, I would run it out until I felt the car start to nose over and then move my shift point down until that went away. I didn't even use a tach in some of the first cars I raced back in the mid 80s. You can try different shift points for the 1-2 and 2-3 to better your ET, like short shifting first gear say 5500 and see how that does.

If your going to bracket race your friend is consistency so once you commit to a shift point that works you need to stick with it through out the remainder of eliminations. Sounds like you making good decisions, if you get your spray worked out sounds like a low 11 or possibly a high 10 pass might be a reality........ 😀