Aftermarket Sway Bar Selection

[scoti]

I'm running 750lb front springs on my coilovers , and wish they were stiffer. Yet it rides better than it did with cut lowering springs. Keep us updated please!

I felt his starting number was low & will be too soft but we all like what we like. Seems 600# is a good compromise but I know everyone has their own 'this is good' spot. My favorite g-body set-up had 650# 1" drop springs w/drop spindles & ~25" front tires. Low w/o chewing away @ the front OE plastic tubs. It took a minute to figure out that combo.

 

[ElkySS89]

I felt his starting number was low but & will be too soft. Seems 600# is a good compromise but I know everyone has their own 'this is good' spot. My favorite g-body set-up had 650# 1" drop springs w/drop spindles & ~25" front tires. Low w/o chewing away @ the front OE plastic tubs. It took a minute to figure out that combo.

It's the rate UMI suggested when I called them. Although, this lower rate may work with a big bar

Took it for a test drive around the block. Seems a little bouncy but I have the shocks pretty loose

 

[scoti]

It's the rate UMI suggested when I called them. Although, this lower rate may work with a big bar

Took it for a test drive around the block. Seems a little bouncy but I have the shocks pretty loose

Exactly. It can very well be spot on @ 'x' ride height. The lower you go, the more rate usually req'd to keep from kissing the road.

 

[jlcustomz]

I think the straight splined end bars with adjustable links is theoretically a top choice.
also think that for street use a little stronger bar with not so stiff a front spring rate is the direction to go for ride quality vs roll resistance.; such as if fronts on airride .
thats what i think . but what do i know.
think I'm hungry. know leftover grilled pork chops await. that's settled
Laters

 

[ElkySS89]

 

[ElkySS89]

Before and after. I think UMI sent me 2in drop springs by mistake

 

[ElkySS89]

I talked to UMI and they said that's where the rear should sit with their 1 inch springs. The old springs were not original and were some unknown brand progressive rate so that may be why it dropped more than expected. I ended up buying some 1/2 inch spacers for the rear to get it to sit where I wanted and it looks perfect now.

I also bought an F41 front bar and it was a noticeable improvement from the standard bar. Just from driving around an empty parking lot, it seems to have some understeer but its not terrible. Still not running a rear bar yet.

 

[81cutlass]

Also, driver skill goes into it A LOT

My 2+2 has
250ish treadwear 245's up front and 275's in the rear
Bigger 3rd gen front hollow bar
CPP adjustable axle mount rear bar
Viking double adjustable on all 4 corners
Moog 5660 (too soft) up front and 5009's (I think) in the rear,
Foam zq8 front bump stops
Tall lower and tall upper ball joints and MCAR adjustable upper arms for added camber
Heim end rear control arms from trick chassis
Rear torque box bracing from trick chassis

Most of the stuff is to get the car to go launch consistently with a blower and stick

And 550+hp

And it's way beyond my ability to drive to the level at an autocross where it's the car's fault for not going faster.

$500 for an afternoon driving school will probably net you more than $500 in improvement from parts. I have seen damn near bone stock MCSS's with just some decent treadwear 17's performing as good as my car at the autocross. They just know how to drive.

 

[ElkySS89]

Also, driver skill goes into it A LOT

My 2+2 has
250ish treadwear 245's up front and 275's in the rear
Bigger 3rd gen front hollow bar
CPP adjustable axle mount rear bar
Viking double adjustable on all 4 corners
Moog 5660 (too soft) up front and 5009's (I think) in the rear,
Foam zq8 front bump stops
Tall lower and tall upper ball joints and MCAR adjustable upper arms for added camber
Heim end rear control arms from trick chassis
Rear torque box bracing from trick chassis

Most of the stuff is to get the car to go launch consistently with a blower and stick

And 550+hp

And it's way beyond my ability to drive to the level at an autocross where it's the car's fault for not going faster.

$500 for an afternoon driving school will probably net you more than $500 in improvement from parts. I have seen damn near bone stock MCSS's with just some decent treadwear 17's performing as good as my car at the autocross. They just know how to drive.

Yea, that's something I'm looking into as well but I want new seats first. The stock bench seat doesn't exactly hold on to you very well.

 

[scoti]

I talked to UMI and they said that's where the rear should sit with their 1 inch springs. The old springs were not original and were some unknown brand progressive rate so that may be why it dropped more than expected. I ended up buying some 1/2 inch spacers for the rear to get it to sit where I wanted and it looks perfect now.

I also bought an F41 front bar and it was a noticeable improvement from the standard bar. Just from driving around an empty parking lot, it seems to have some understeer but its not terrible. Still not running a rear bar yet.

Another variable? The alignment specs used.