Ahhh, fresh Quadrajet :)

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88Classic

Apprentice
Jan 9, 2011
83
0
6
Lansing, IL
Ok, I found vacuum diagram..I had 2 lines reversed. Fixed that and let it run a bit...it quit smoking. I think that was just from it sitting for 2-3 months without being started. It drives and feels about how it did before the rebuild...which is like a dog. I know the timing chain had play...I'm wondering if that's affecting the drivability..I've got a new chain and gearset I'm gonna get put in, and get the carb properly tuned as well. Should help out. Glad to hear I got a good price on the rebuild. That was their street rebuild. For $365 they do a show rebuild and plate all the parts so it looks real nice for a show car. I'd reccommend them to anyone wanting their carb rebuilt.
 

digimurda

Greasemonkey
Sep 29, 2010
231
7
18
RHODE ISLAND
niceeeee......
im going to do mine also, and i was thinking about converting it to electric choke, but where would i connect the plug to?
or should i have it done the same way it came with the car? original...
 

88Classic

Apprentice
Jan 9, 2011
83
0
6
Lansing, IL
digimurda said:
niceeeee......
im going to do mine also, and i was thinking about converting it to electric choke, but where would i connect the plug to?
or should i have it done the same way it came with the car? original...

I did a bunch of reading up on that....I haven't hooked mine up yet since its been 90+ temps lately..no need for a choke lol. From what I understand you just need to hook that wire to a ignition switched 12volt circuit. Apparently the best ways are either an oil pressure switch or a relay off the alternator, so it only gets 12v when the motor is turning, and not when just the key is in the ACC position. This guy really explains it:

joe_padavano said:
This question must come up monthly. Simply using a switched power source, especially one that is hot in the ACC position, can cause the choke to open prematurely if the key is on but the engine is not running.

GM used two different methods, depending on the vehicle. Most used an oil pressure switch in the power line to the choke. This way, the choke doesn't start to heat up until the engine is running and there is oil pressure. I ran a fused wire (20 A fuse) from the BATT terminal on the alternator to the switch, and from the switch to the choke. Very simple to wire and very clean. I like to use the Standard P/N PS64 switch. The middle terminal works the OIL light, the other two are a normally open switch that closes with oil pressure. Use these to control the choke. If you have an oil pressure gauge instead of a light, simply use a brass tee fitting to connect both this switch and your oil pressure sender.

PS64_FULL.jpg


joe_padavano-albums-electric+choke+wiring-picture5041-electric-choke-wiring-oil-press-switch.jpg


The other way is to use a relay that is triggered by the field wire on the alternator (brown #1 wire on SI-family alternators, for example). The field wire is only hot when the alternator is turning. This is how GM wired the stock G-body cars with electric choke when the gauge package was installed. Of course the down side with that is that the choke will close if you break the alternator belt. A typical wiring diagram for the second method is here:

joe_padavano-albums-electric+choke+wiring-picture5042-electric-choke-wiring-relay.jpg


Edit: added schematic for oil pressure switch option


from this thread: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=25761
 

DoubleV

Royal Smart Person
Feb 25, 2011
2,147
408
83
Medina Ohio
digimurda said:
niceeeee......
im going to do mine also, and i was thinking about converting it to electric choke, but where would i connect the plug to?
or should i have it done the same way it came with the car? original...

Switching to an electric choke is a waste of time if you're already set up with a perfectly fine factory hot air choke IMO. The only reason to switch would be if you when to an intake that didn't have a provision for the hot air set-up. I switched to an electric choke for this reason ( have an RPM intake ) and I used the 12v source formally going to the ECM ( which I'm not using anymore ).

Although it's technically better, I don't see a big need for all the extra stuff that Joe P listed. Who's going to be having the key in the ON position for an extended period of time on a stone cold engine then try to start it? Maybe some dumb blond but not anyone who knows their car.
 

Blueboy84

Greasemonkey
Sep 25, 2010
139
4
18
Northern Kentucky
They rebuilt mine as well about 3 years ago....they do very nice work! Mine still looks and works like new. Better than new, actually.
 

digimurda

Greasemonkey
Sep 29, 2010
231
7
18
RHODE ISLAND
DoubleV said:
digimurda said:
niceeeee......
im going to do mine also, and i was thinking about converting it to electric choke, but where would i connect the plug to?
or should i have it done the same way it came with the car? original...

Switching to an electric choke is a waste of time if you're already set up with a perfectly fine factory hot air choke IMO. The only reason to switch would be if you when to an intake that didn't have a provision for the hot air set-up. I switched to an electric choke for this reason ( have an RPM intake ) and I used the 12v source formally going to the ECM ( which I'm not using anymore ).

Although it's technically better, I don't see a big need for all the extra stuff that Joe P listed. Who's going to be having the key in the ON position for an extended period of time on a stone cold engine then try to start it? Maybe some dumb blond but not anyone who knows their car.
thanks, ill stick with the factory hot air choke, lol
 
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