anyone have experience with this set-up?

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I like that it uses the Type II power steering pump. I don't like the underdrive though. And for that price i'd want it to come with the alternator.
 
Just in case few people aren't aware of this, I am posting it because we recently tried it out and it was so easy, it should be illegal! We are putting together an '81 Regal and I decided I wanted a serpentine belt design but did not want to go big money on it. I figured after looking at a 4.3 V6 motor that the accessory drive belt brackets should bolt up to a traditional SB Chevy. I pulled the brackets off a 4.3 S-10 Blazer and it basically bolted right up with a few minor mods-very easy! To things were accomplished by doing this. First was being able to swap belts in about 30 seconds and you're done. Next was my desire to keep the AC. And third was to upgrade to a newer style ps pump design. Here's what to do: Yes, you can use TPI or TBI SB brackets but it's easier to find 4.3 versions. Find any serpentine 4.3 brackets up to 1993. You need a pulley puller, a metric socket set (deep) and a long breaker bar to aid in pulling the tensioner back to release the belt. Also, bring a standard and metric flare nut wrench set for the ps lines. Now, you have to use the pulley puller to remove the ps. pulley off so you can gain access to the bolt on the drivers side head that helps bolt the bracket to the head. Once the pulley is off, remove the bolts that go through the ps bracket which extend into the reservoir housing, then move it out and aside and then you can get to the bolt on the head. Above the ps pump is the alternator which comes off very easy-three mounting points here-4 and 7 clocking position bolts and one bracket bolt that is anchored to the exhaust bolts. Keep that bracket because with a few washers acting as spacers, it bolts up to a SB Chevy, too! Use your deep sockets to remove the remaining 3 nuts/bolts and the whole drivers side bracket slips off! On the pass. side, you have another 4 bolts/nuts to remove but this side is easier still. The compressor go ahead and leave it in the bracket once you get all the mounting points off and it all slips off as one big unit as well. Be sure to keep the idlers and tensioner assembly and all pulleys. With everything ready to transfer over to your existing 350 or whatever, you need to pick up a new water pump for your motor but since it's a serpentine now, you need a reverse flow pump. If you have a heater hose fitting in your radiator, use a 4.3 water pump. If not, use a TBI 350 water pump which needs to have the heater hose fitting in the water pump. All pulleys will bolt right up and you will end up using 6 of the 8 total mounting points for the bracket set-the 4.3 block has slightly more mounting locations but 3 on each side will anchor the brackets very well. One more thing, if the bracket set has the provision for a smog pump under the AC compressor, you will need to notch a section out of the lower corner of it if you are using a mechanical fuel pump. That's it-done! The ps hose has the same o-ring fitting if you're g-body is '81 or newer and if you want to retain your AC, grab a set of hoses for a 3.8 car and the hoses bolt right up-there may be slight differences with the bend depending on how the outlets on the drier is located but the hoses can conform to fit just the same. Be sure to grab the pressure switch from the donor car also for use on your AC system. I plan to snag as many 4.3 brackets as I can now from my boneyards. Overall, this can be looked at as an affordable serpentine swap and it works very well! -Jabin


Got this off maliburacing.com. something to think about
 
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