Ball joint issue

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FE3X CLONE

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 2, 2009
2,714
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Ohio
So I have a set of HOWE tall modular ball joints on my car. I was going around torquing everything down yesterday and noticed that when I torque the ball joints to the factory specs, the castle nut ends up so far down on the stud that if you put a cotter pin through the hole in the stud, its nowhere near the nut.

Anyone run into a situation like this when replacing ball joints? I've been told you can put washers under the nut to raise it up but I'm a bit sceptical about doing that.

Thanks,
 
I never had that issue but then again most of my front end rebuild kit was OE replacement parts, minus some polyurethane bushings. I remember one of the ball joints did give me a hard time. Can't remember if it is what your describing since I ended up torquing the thing down to the point when I could finally get a cotter pin in.
 
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I guess its not really a .25" off but its still pretty low. I have a call into the SC&C where I bought them to see if they've run across this.

Thanks,
 
Go ahead and use some washers to raise the nut up to the appropriate height.

A lot of times replacement ball joints come with a few washers for that very reason.
 
Some of mine were like that and I ended up putting the cotter pin in like that. You figure if the nut backs off that much, at some point the cotter pin is going to catch the nut.
 
As long as it properly seats in the spindle you will be fine doing what Blake442 says. I suggest Williams Washers, they are hardened.

patmckinneyracing, that is a very bad idea.

At minimum , if it loosens , it will destroy the taper in your spindle.
If left like that for a while ,it keeps lossening until it hits the nut and sooner or later the balljoint snaps.
Invest in williams washer.
 
I take that back. I looked at mine and mine look perfect as far as fitment and cotter pin placement in relation to the nut. Don't know what the hell I was thinking :lol:
 
Thanks for the info guys.

I did check to make sure the ball joint stud fit the taper properly by putting machinist dye on the stud and inserting it into the spindle and tightening everything down. Then pulled them apart and checked the pattern.

The fact that I had to beat the spindles/control arms with a mallet just to get the ball joints to pop loose again was a good sign they are seating properly.

I check into those Williams washers. Thanks!
 
call SC&C!!! using 1 washer should be ok, but there's way too much slop to take up there. marcus can help you figure it out.
 
Used a hardened steel washer today under each of the nuts and torqued everything down. Cotter pins slid through just right and everything is nice and tight now.

I've sent two emails and left a couple of messages for Marcus and haven't heard anything back. 🙁
 
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