Body Crooked on Frame

[zildjian4life218]

Hey everyone. I have a 1986 Olds Cutlass with a SBC 350. Dyno numbers were around 450 at the crank. Car runs mid 12s and pulls 1.6X 60' with some MT drag radials(235/60R15). I noticed that the outside of my left rear tire is rubbing on the body but the right side I can fit my entire hand between the wheel and fender. Car has 2" drop springs in the front and 1" drop Monte Carlo SS springs in the back. Has KYB shocks all around and factory control arms. Also has a 8.8 Rear end out of an Explorer that was narrowed(It was ruled out numerous times that this is not the issue).

After doing some measurements with a buddy we also noticed the the right front tire is also tight. Almost like the body if twisted slightly CCW when viewed from above.

I replaced the body bushings a couple years ago and boxed in the middle section of the frame at that time.

We have measured corner to corner from many different points and the frame and suspension all seem to be very close. But measure the body to the frame is where we are seeing the body being twisted.

Here is my question. How can I fix this?

I have the car up on ramps in all four corners and have loosened the body bolts hoping that maybe if I let it sit for a week or so it will straighten out? Is it normal to have to persuade the body back into the correct place? Do I need to pry the body into position then tighten the bolts?

Thanks,
Shane

 

[403Olds]

There's a alignment hole behind the LH tire that you can check to see if the body is lined up to the frame. Also an alignment slot behind the RH rear tire. That's how I lined up my frame and body when I did body bushings last spring. I know I had to shift mine around to get it lined up when I set it back down.

 

[pontiacgp]

if you measure the body to the frame and it is not on straight then loosen the body mount bolts, lift the body a bit and straighten the body. If you thinking you might have twisted something going down the track you'd know it right away with the doors not closing properly

 

[zildjian4life218]

Thanks for the fast replies! I will check out those alignment slots. Doors close fine. I will just move the body into position and then torque the bolts back down.

 

[zildjian4life218]

We are having a hell of a time trying to get the body to move. Do you have a picture of the alignment slots?

I have the bolts all very loose and lifted up the sides of the body using the 2x4 along the pinch weld.

 

[pontiacgp]

I wasn't aware of the alignment slots when I did mine. When I did mine I measured along the the inside of the rocker panel to the frame. Kept them equal along both sides and parallel to the frame and it worked out just fine. My rear wheels have the identical space between each rear wheel and inside of the wheel house.

 

[403Olds]

Here's a couple of pictures when I did mine. measuring the rockers would be fine also. I noticed that the gap on mine is now the same side to side. the only downside is that now I need lowering springs as my body was sitting alot lower with the worn out bushings and rusted out frame holes....

 

[pontiacgp]

I never knew that there was alignment holes, I spend nearly an hour measuring the body and frame so it's be right...

off topic........if you want to have the choice of cutting springs for the rear to get the height you want you can use the F body spring isolator for the rear. There is a channel in the isolator for an open ended spring. I have Phoenix springs in the rear of my GP that I cut. Moog springs atre alot cheaper than the other brands of lowering springs. The isolator is part #10290379

 

[403Olds]

The alignment slots are helpful, I found that info on another site ( don't remember which). Thanks for the tips on the springs, that's going to be one of this winters projects!