Alright, I'm finally ready to throw in the towel on this and cede defeat, but not because of anything to do with whether GM gave torque specs for dry or lubricated threads. No, it's far more bizarre and complicated than that.
As you can just make out in the snapshot below, my car has Class 12.8 bolts -- not 12.9.
12.8 was an oddball grade that GM started using in these A/G-body cars with the '78 models. 12.8 wasn't even in the official SAE standard, but an appendix to it. Why they used it is arcane, having to do with hardness values where corrosion is an issue. But here's the bottom line: they used it instead of 10.9, but with the same torque spec as they would have used for 10.9. I know this because they used M12 Class 12.8 bolts in the rear control arms until those bolts started cracking, then had a big recall to replace those bolts with 10.9 at the same torque. But clearly they continued using M10 Class 12.8 for the body mounts, as shown below in my '83 Malibu.
So I will use the zinc plated 10.9 bolts I bought, lube the threads and torque them at 40 lb-ft or so, and shut up about this issue. And while I'm at it I also must admit that this is consistent with torque specs in the shop manual being dry unless stated otherwise.
As you can just make out in the snapshot below, my car has Class 12.8 bolts -- not 12.9.
12.8 was an oddball grade that GM started using in these A/G-body cars with the '78 models. 12.8 wasn't even in the official SAE standard, but an appendix to it. Why they used it is arcane, having to do with hardness values where corrosion is an issue. But here's the bottom line: they used it instead of 10.9, but with the same torque spec as they would have used for 10.9. I know this because they used M12 Class 12.8 bolts in the rear control arms until those bolts started cracking, then had a big recall to replace those bolts with 10.9 at the same torque. But clearly they continued using M10 Class 12.8 for the body mounts, as shown below in my '83 Malibu.
So I will use the zinc plated 10.9 bolts I bought, lube the threads and torque them at 40 lb-ft or so, and shut up about this issue. And while I'm at it I also must admit that this is consistent with torque specs in the shop manual being dry unless stated otherwise.