Bolting flex plate to converter

Chevytruc1658

Apprentice
Oct 22, 2011
86
26
18
North Bend, Washington
Happy Saturday morning everyone. I have just bolted my 2004r to my 455 and have a question regarding the air gap between the converter and the Flexplate. Most manufactures say to have a minimum gap of 1/4” but wanted to first check to see if I should be pushing the converter all the way forward before bolting. The converter is fully seated yet I can move it front to back so my question is, should I move it forward towards the flex plate and then bolt it or should I push and seat it fully back then bolt and shim with washers to insure proper gap? This is a art carr converter and transmission in case it matters. I attached two photos, one pushed forwad into the flex plate and the second pushed back into the transmission. Thanks in advance for your feedback everyone.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 45
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 48

Chevytruc1658

Apprentice
Oct 22, 2011
86
26
18
North Bend, Washington
How much gap do you have? I look for about 3/16" and bolt it up when I have that.
Right on 3/16” with it pushed fully into the transmission
 

bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
1,415
1,654
113
You want 1/8-3/16” clearance to the pump in the trans. I push it into the pump and pull it out where I need it and shim it off the flexplate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

gp471

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jan 15, 2022
32
13
8
i have an art carr 2004r.instructions say 1/8 to 3/16.i have just under 3/16.check your crank bolt learance,my pontiac 455 ended up hitting bolts to flex plate and beat the thrust bearing out of it.could clearly see bolt impressions on the converter.getting 426 hemi bolts to hep stop it from happening again.
 

Rt Jam

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2020
594
587
93
Ontario Canada
There may be some confusion of what is forward and what is enough so I will clarify where and why the clearance is needed.

There must be clearance between the flexplate and the converter lugs. This ensures the torque converter is fully seated on the oil pump and when you pull it towards the engine we know it's not bottomed out on the pump. Movement towards the engine is the clearance the converter drive lugs give the transmission oil pump.

Now when it is pulled towards the engine and is able go flush to the flexplate. Now we know the pilot or center support is not limiting the converter from floating forward. This is why I do not give advice to shim or add washers to the 3 lugs. It may work, but it's not right.

Another method I like to see is lay the converter on a table with the neck down. Now lay the flexplate on the converter and it should lay onto the lugs without any space.

This might be 99 extra steps but it ensures the oil pump is not pushed back and the converter is supported by hub.
 
Last edited:

spongbob

Greasemonkey
Oct 1, 2022
129
74
28
Happy Saturday morning everyone. I have just bolted my 2004r to my 455 and have a question regarding the air gap between the converter and the Flexplate. Most manufactures say to have a minimum gap of 1/4” but wanted to first check to see if I should be pushing the converter all the way forward before bolting. The converter is fully seated yet I can move it front to back so my question is, should I move it forward towards the flex plate and then bolt it or should I push and seat it fully back then bolt and shim with washers to insure proper gap? This is a art carr converter and transmission in case it matters. I attached two photos, one pushed forwad into the flex plate and the second pushed back into the transmission. Thanks in advance for your feedback everyone.
Yes just pull push it ahead against the flexplate. Put your bolts in the minimalb1/4" thing is so you know the 2 pump keys are in the 2 converter drives . If it was already hitting the flexplate it would be that the keys weren't in the slots( pump) or the flexplates ( something) anyways .the old cars used to use bolts and nuts fine thread were the type.If you want observer(do) the 3/16 spacer washer mentioned by (in)the other replys ,if possible 1 thick washers better then 3 thin ones but really the pump is kinda free wheeling so if its catching by 1/8 an inch?.. I" have left them out(washers) !...i can remember not checking the torque converter pattern and they had a couple sizes had to drill the flexwheel with a 3/8 bit duh.... or/ file one or 2 holes a tiny shad .everything's worked right for a long time though
 
Last edited:

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor