Brake plumbing help...please

[Malibunewguy]

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and new to re-doing a car. Son and I started an 80 Malibu project. It was rolling chassis and stripped. Certainly we feel in over our heads and neither of us are mechanics, but through persuasion and some help from a friend, we took it on. To cut to the chase, the car has had no break lines or Master Cylinder. All it really had for this part was the booster. So we replaced the MC and are looking to run the lines. From what I can tell the original proportional valve had 5 outlets. I assume 2 for the MC, 2 for front and one for rear brakes. However, the ones I see online only have 4. Is that ok to get, and then just split the front line with a "t" like the back? My other though is that I have a Wilwood we took off of an 84 Regal. It has an adjustable valve, along with 2 blue "connectors" that say 2psi. One of the connectors came from the MC to the front brake lines. The other was from the MC and then to the adjustable valve that fed to the rear. Can I use the same Wilwood system in the Malibu? Both cars are Disc/Drum.

Sorry so long, but I hope enough detail to make sense. Thank you in advance for any help.

 

[565bbchevy]

This is the proportioning valve I just bought which should be a direct replacement. (5 ports)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141162216343?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The "connectors" as you stated are Wilwood residual pressure valves and are only used for applications where the Master Cylinder is located below the horizontal plane of the calipers used to hold line pressure and if the car had rear drums the 10 lb red valve would have been the proper one to use.
I would not use the pressure valves as it sounds like someone was trying to bandaid some other issue.
The adjustable valve you spoke of I am assuming it is a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve either a knob or lever style I would use it and plumb it into the line going to the rear brakes, just mount it in a location that gives easy access for adjustment and you will then be able to adjust lockup with it and if you decide to later go with rear disc you can keep this set up in place and it will carry over to the new set up.

 

[Malibunewguy]

Thank you 565. I had looked at that one on ebay and could only see 4, but there must be one on the bottom. I assume that it mounts down on the frame rail. Does it happen to be marked as to which port goes where? Front, MC, rear? Also, I appreciate the insight and info on the wilwood stuff. When I plumb it in, put it before or after the prop. valve?

 

[565bbchevy]

Yes there is a port on the bottom for the other front line and you would mount the adjustable proportioning valve between the factory valve and the drums, I have mine mounted before the rear tire on the inside of the frame rail.
The plumbing for the factory valve is kind of self explanatory, the 2 up front (top and bottom) are your front brakes and the single 1/4" line off the back goes to the rear which leaves the 2 on top in the middle for the master cylinder.

 

[Malibunewguy]

That sounds good. I ordered the valve and it should be here late next week so I'll give this a try. We really do appreciate your information!

 

[Mat1227]

If your also looking for brake lines, Inlinetube.com is where I've bought 2 different sets, they are good prices, pre-bent to the correct shape, really helps with knowing where they all fit if your starting a frame without any lines on it now. I've bought the stainless sets because of where I live (NE Ohio rust belt) if your in a northern area Stainless is the way to go.

Mark

 

[565bbchevy]

I am making all my own lines for my Regal using Cunifer tubing, I bought two 25' rolls off Ebay 1/4" and 3/16" and with all the fittings to completely re-plumb the entire car I will have about $75 total into it. This is my first time using Cunifer and it is super easy to work with, bends by hand and flares very nice. I will probably have enough line and fittings left over to do at least half of another car.
Also since I do not like the crappy bleeder set up that came with my new Master Cylinder I will make my own out of extra tubing and fittings.

 

[Malibunewguy]

I did pickup a roll 25' roll of 3/16" from the local O'Reillys. Do I need 1/4" also? I didn't realize it took 2 different sizes. So much to learn...but learning new things is always good.

 

[565bbchevy]

Yes, the 1/4" goes from the rear of the factory proportioning valve to the end of the flex line over the middle of the rearend.and it will also be one of the coiled lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

 

[pontiacgp]

Like 565bbchevy I also used cunifer for all my brake lines and it does not corrode. I did them three years ago and the lines look like they did when I put them on. With the cunifer you bend it by hand so although it is more expensive you save on a tool and it doesn't corrode.