um, those ARE the seats i have for mine but mine are grey leather, came out of a car with like 30000 on it. they are like new
Building a G Body All-Rounder
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yea every leather set I find are tore slam up ,looked like a tiger was in the car..lol those in the pic came out of a car with 250k..lol and smelled horrid ,took me a month before i could put em in ,bet i cleaned em 50 times.
I wanted the tall spindles because it supposedly gives you better geometry with negative roll, etc. Global also says the geometry improvements allow you to run weaker springs and sway bars for the same handling improvement and say that stiffer parts will handle worse with their setup. I already have the arms from Global West and by the time I buy everything I will probably have $700 in the front end setup. Yeah...not cheap. I also may put a set of tubular lower arms in at that time too and get rid of all the stamped steel pieces in the front end. I also want their rear lowers with the spherical bearings to allow for proper articulation while stiffening it all up. I may do uppers as well, but am undecided as to who I will buy them from yet. I also have not decided what wheels I want to go with. Probably 17's or 18's but I can't decide on a style yet. I originally wanted Torque Thrust II's, but they have been done to death. Has to be a shiny chrome or polished wheel to set off the dark blue paint and factory paint.
I want an IRS in the car too, but have yet to find one in a width I want with the geometry I want. I have found some semi-trailing arm designs like those in a BMW 5 series, but it's ancient technology. I like the setup in a S13 240SX. It has a strong R200 diff with LSD and good geometry. However, it uses struts and would cause packaging problems.
I want an IRS in the car too, but have yet to find one in a width I want with the geometry I want. I have found some semi-trailing arm designs like those in a BMW 5 series, but it's ancient technology. I like the setup in a S13 240SX. It has a strong R200 diff with LSD and good geometry. However, it uses struts and would cause packaging problems.
i looked into the irs but that is a hell of a project, i was looking into the corvette setups. there is some info out on the web about it but i dont remember any g body specific stuff. if you come up with a affordable way to do it please let me know! as far as geometry correction i am skeptical that there is that big of a improvement, there may very be but i have heard both ways. i personally would like to find a affordable rack and pinion setup for my car, if i can find a way to do it cheap i might just save the money and drop it on one of the few kits that have hit the market more recently. it sounds like you have a similar final product in mind as i do. i have 17s right now and i plan all tubular arms also but i just did energy bushings for now. i also have air ride on mine right now but if it interfers with handeling later on they will be coming out.
I considered air ride, but the way the air springs work is different from coil springs and not as good for handling from what I have read. There may be better setups out there, but from what I have read they are not 10/10ths setups like most conventional setups. There is a setup by Firestone sold for imports under the Praxis label that tried to do this, but I read mixed reviews about it. Air Ride also has one that is supposed to work, but I am not convinced.
The nice thing about the G body suspension is the motion ratio of the springs versus the wheel. It multiplies the spring rate to a higher wheel rate with a softer spring due to it's inboard position. This is different from a Mac Phearson strut arrangement which has a 1:1 relationship between spring rate and wheel rate. It also allows better travel as the strut style is limited by strut compression rate. The inboard spring and shock move less than the wheel and are therefore not limiting factors in travel which is important for handling.
I want the tubular arms because they allow for more precise wheel movement and retention of alignment throughout their travel with wider load variations. If I could do it cheaply, I would go with rack and pinion steering for better precision and weight reduction. If you have never picked up a Saginaw integral PS box before, trust me. It's a heavy sucker! That and the reduction in complexity allows for more precise control. I will probably just do the billet adjuster sleeves for the tie rods instead as I do not trust myself to fabricate steering! Booger welds are fine for rust repairs but have no place in critical areas.
The nice thing about the G body suspension is the motion ratio of the springs versus the wheel. It multiplies the spring rate to a higher wheel rate with a softer spring due to it's inboard position. This is different from a Mac Phearson strut arrangement which has a 1:1 relationship between spring rate and wheel rate. It also allows better travel as the strut style is limited by strut compression rate. The inboard spring and shock move less than the wheel and are therefore not limiting factors in travel which is important for handling.
I want the tubular arms because they allow for more precise wheel movement and retention of alignment throughout their travel with wider load variations. If I could do it cheaply, I would go with rack and pinion steering for better precision and weight reduction. If you have never picked up a Saginaw integral PS box before, trust me. It's a heavy sucker! That and the reduction in complexity allows for more precise control. I will probably just do the billet adjuster sleeves for the tie rods instead as I do not trust myself to fabricate steering! Booger welds are fine for rust repairs but have no place in critical areas.
I always wanted to tranfer the interior from a Aurora into a cutlass. Center console, everything. Even the dash. Very comforatable with a european feel.
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