Car slips out of gear

Since the OP is running an '04 LM7...I'll pose the question, are you fuel injected and is there any means for the computer to run a computer trans i.e. 4L60E or 4L80E.

In my short stint of researching the possibility of rebuilding a 200-4R, I learned that there are some parts that will interchange with a 200C...interestingly the servo is larger than the ^^^BRF offering as mentioned.
 
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Keep in mind that no matter how well the 700R4/2004R transmissions get rebuilt, their achiles heal is that TV(throttle valve) cable.... you can sink 5K into that transmission, and a misadjusted cable will wipe out all the clutches in a matter of moments. Personally, if you have the means, convert it over with a T56 manual tranmission and call it a day, more fun to drive IMO and shift when yoiu want to, within means of course. PITA in stop and go traffic though.
 
Keep in mind that no matter how well the 700R4/2004R transmissions get rebuilt, their achiles heal is that TV(throttle valve) cable.... you can sink 5K into that transmission, and a misadjusted cable will wipe out all the clutches in a matter of moments. Personally, if you have the means, convert it over with a T56 manual tranmission and call it a day, more fun to drive IMO and shift when yoiu want to, within means of course. PITA in stop and go traffic though.

Not just the cable adjustment but also the geometry of the tv cable. Many aftermarket cable brackets for aftermarket carbs can still have tv cable geometry that is poorer than the stock Qjet or throttle body setup. Since LS engines were never designed to operate with old TH2004Rs it probably would be better to use a more modern transmission that is designed to mate with an LS.
 
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Speaking of geometry, get a load of this @#$!... i took pictures of the entire car right after i bought my '79 malibu before i did any changes, before and after records if you will.

Makes me wonder how the 700R4 survived before and after the last owner of the car had it, but its still going strong thankfully, i had bought a new GM original style TV cable, mounted and set everything with the correct brackets, the way it should have been in the first place.

Picture 1( before) / Picture 2(after)
 

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Do simple first.

1. Pull and inspect governor... check for missing teeth. As the plastic ages under sharp or heavy acceleration it will knock the teeth off. When this happens it no longer is able to govern the line pressure. From that you start getting erratic shifts or holding the shift out in first and it won't shift in a second.

2. Pull vac line to modulator... Check for wet or dripping trans fluid. If the modulator looks old. Go ahead and replace it with a new adjustable unit should have the black stripe on it.

3. Pull electrical electrical connector. This bypasses the TCC. Test drive and see if that makes any changes.

4. Pull the pan and check for excess junk. One tablespoon is common knowledge as being normal. There should be no pieces of brass or aluminum in the pan.

Beyond that might have to take it to a shop, might need rebuilt.
 
Good info 78Delta88, I once had similar issues as OP and it ended up being the vac line near the back of the quadrajet was dry rotted and wouldn't upshift. You never know and OP might luck out with a simple fix.
 
Hey everyone, I just wanted to give you an update. So my transmission is jerking when it's hot when it gets in to second gear however, I think there might be an issue in the grounding or my alternator. I didn't drive the car for 5 days and when I tried to turn it on, the pump wouldn't turn on and when I boosted it, it worked. Also I put a new battery and I have this little computer thing attached to the obd2 and it'll read 14 volts when I start the car but then go down to 13.2-13.4 when it's warm. And it drop to 13 then car won't accelerate for a second so I press the pedal again and then it accelerates. I know it's alot of info but do you guys have any idea?
 

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