Carb Quadrajet Problems

[Cutty1987]

Need some assistance.. i have an 87 cutlass supreme, when you turn the ignition, the electric carb always makes a clicking noise.. up until yesterday, it randomly stopped, but the car still starts.. but at a weird idle also... now my car says to service engine soon.. anyone ever deal with this?

Now with the idle issue, usually when you start the car it revs really high and after warming up, it as always idled down.. now it doesnt rev up at all, and stays revved at idle, like 1200-1500 rpms.. nothing like before..

 

[BlairC_789]

Its most likely the mixture control soleniod that was making the clicking sound, its supposed to when the key gets turned on. Good ole quadrajunk issues

 

[airboatgreg]

I see a couple of issues. Pull the code on the SSE light and let us know. I doubt very seriously it is a faulty MC solenoid

 

[Cutty1987]

Its most likely the mixture control soleniod that was making the clicking sound, its supposed to when the key gets turned on. Good ole quadrajunk issues

Yeah and i figured it was that, but it doesnt do it anymore, it just stopped..

 

[69hurstolds]

Its most likely the mixture control soleniod that was making the clicking sound, its supposed to when the key gets turned on. Good ole quadrajunk issues

IIRC, when the key is on and engine not running, Chevy M/C solenoids will cycle. Oldsmobiles click once.

First off, get the codes from the ECM. Anything other than Code 12, which means your ECM is "normal".

One thing to check to see if the solenoid is good or not- With the key off, unplug the M/C solenoid, take a 12V source to one terminal on the blue M/C solenoid head on the carb, and ground the other side to put 12V on the M/C solenoid itself. You should hear one click as the solenoid is energized. If it clicks, it's good. If it doesn't it's probably bad. That's a surefire way to tell if your M/C solenoid is functioning. It's one of the few emission pieces I know that you can put a full 12V to. Most of the others are 5V or less.

 

[Cutty1987]

IIRC, when the key is on and engine not running, Chevy M/C solenoids will cycle. Oldsmobiles click once.

First off, get the codes from the ECM. Anything other than Code 12, which means your ECM is "normal".

One thing to check to see if the solenoid is good or not- With the key off, unplug the M/C solenoid, take a 12V source to one terminal on the blue M/C solenoid head on the carb, and ground the other side to put 12V on the M/C solenoid itself. You should hear one click as the solenoid is energized. If it clicks, it's good. If it doesn't it's probably bad. That's a surefire way to tell if your M/C solenoid is functioning. It's one of the few emission pieces I know that you can put a full 12V to. Most of the others are 5V or less.

On mine, it would click all the time non-stop on, but just moving the ignition to on, it would click for about 20 times, then stop... i have no check engine light.. just say "service engine soon"..

 

[pagrunt]

i have no check engine light.. just say "service engine soon"..

Both are the same thing, just different wording.

 

[Cutty1987]

Both are the same thing, just different wording.

Yeah i just learned that.. lol

 

[Cutty1987]

Tried the paperclip method, and got code 41.. let it circle 3 times to make sure there were no other codes, and kept getting 41

 

[69hurstolds]

First, is it a Canadian Olds or a U.S. Olds? 307 or 305 engine? Or 3.8 V6? It could make a difference. I'm going on based on a 307 Olds V8.

Are you also getting a code 12? Code 12 is considered "normal" when the car isn't running because it's not getting a distributor reference signal with the car not running, which is exactly what you'd expect. Code 12 with engine not running and key on is considered a verification step to ensure the ECM is communicating properly.

Now, start the engine and check for codes again. If you get a code 12 when the engine is running (ECM does not store a code 12) then you have an issue.

Code 41 is also a no distributor reference signal trouble code but for a different reason. Code 41 is stored regardless so it stays until you clear the codes, even if the problem goes away. I have never seen a code 41 in my life, so trying to hunt down the problem could be easy, or could be a nightmare.

There's a few things that it could be. First check your 4 pin connector coming out of the distributor which connects to the ECM. The connector should be back around the passenger side back corner of the intake. Just follow the leads from the distributor. You'll find it. Make sure the connector isn't broken or disconnected, or corroded. Check the wires too to make sure there's nothing broken/shorted. Make sure the VAC sensor (D/P sensor) on the passenger fenderwell is hooked up with its 2 wire connector to the ECM and the vacuum line to the intake. If the D/P sensor is messing up, you SHOULD also get a Code 34. But then again, if it's messing up, it just may not be moving and

The pickup coil AND/OR ignition module itself inside the distributor could be hosed. Pickup coil would mean a total disassembly of the distributor, so hopefully it isn't that. But you can at least check the wiring to the module to see if its connected and wires aren't broken. The module is a 7 pin connector on Olds. I THINK it's like a 4 pin on a Chevy, but can't recall. GM p/n 1976908 or equivalent aftermarket part is what you would need should yours be hosed, again, assuming a 307Y engine. If you do replace the module, ensure you use HEAT SINK grease for electronics on the metal base of the module. Without it, you'll likely toast the new module long before it should be.