Circle track stock car

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pballa555

n00b
Sep 3, 2014
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hey everybody, I race a stock car on a 4/10 mile paved oval, its a monte carlo. that's what everyone races in this class is these g bodies. im always looking tor ways to improve my car and such and I was wondering if any of you people had any tips. I"ll post a link to the rules. if anyone has any tips or tricks legal or non legal that would be awesome. thanks.

they are the stock car rules at the bottom of the page

http://www.westernspeedway.net/racers/rules/

thanks
 
welcome ans that is a large track to run a metric car. We raced a metric at a 3/8 mile track and it worked well but when at a 1/4 mile track the 4 link rear lets the back end move around too much. If your rules allow you to use a 3 link that would help or if an run truck arms that would help. We sold our metric when went with a 2nd gen f body since the leaf suspension didn't let the rear end move. On your front lower A arms if they let you cut off the hump that will let you lower the car a bit more. We found at 6" with the hump that would hit the frame and it sure woke up the driver. That was with 850 lbs right hand spring and a large bar. I don't know what degree the banking is at your track and if it's progressive or not. What springs are your running and what type of shocks are you allowed to run?
 
I raced G-Bodies for 16+ years as Pro Stock cars this was on dirt and we had much more open rules than you do. Tight rules just mean you have to be more creative, most tech inspectors have little to no knowledge on what they are looking for. First rule of thumb always paint everything on the underside of the car black so modifications are much harder to see. The biggest problem with the G-Body platform is the bump steer, the lack of anti-dive in the rear, and the very long wheelbase. With your rules your going to have to be creative, it says all stock steering parts in the front but you can still get a bump steer gauge and learn how to use it and bend your inner tie rods, re-drill the center link, and space the outer tie rod to get it much better. I could show you exactly how to do this but cannot explain it here. Next I would move the rear spring seats ever so slightly forward on the axle housing and frame to increase forward drive, and run a very hard bushing in both ends of the lower trailing arms, and in the front portion of the uppers, then put the "super soft" bushings in the upper portion of the housing ( Speedway Motors has these) this promotes axle wrap to make the springs you moved forward even more effective. Anything you can do to shorten the wheelbase even a 1/4" will help, I would always cut the frame at the factory seam where the "C" channel portion ends and shorten it 5/8", all tech guys just thought it was factory. This is a place to start, cudos by the way to whoever wrote your rules, this is what I do now, now just if they enforce them
 
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