Yeah, but the computer controlled cams will work fine without a computer. This is only from my own experience as my 355 has had 2 different cams in it, both with the 114 degree LSA and I have been very happy with them. The 280h Magnum cam in my AMC 360 has been less than streetable and not as fun to drive on the street as the xe262 in the 355. It may be a parts combination problem in the 360, but it does not make the same kind of power the smaller cam 355 does. I am not a fan of the Big Block in a street application, so I only have experience with the small block. Hopefully someone else here who knows more about them will chime in with more information. Just remember that too much cam will probably make less power than stock, not more. You need to take into consideration your compression ratio, peak cylinder pressure ( a product of cam timing and static compression), and head flow. Remember that cylinder pressure varies with RPM, and a lower peak pressure at lower RPM's will make it sluggish on the bottom end. Picking a cam designed for a higher RPM range than the heads can support will only result in trading off low rpm pressure ( where the heads are most efficient) for high rpm air flow ( that the heads cannot support). Try getting a hold of a good dyno sim program for your PC to help you with your cam choice. I did this and wound up with a very good combination of parts for my car. It's only around $100, which is cheap compared with the cost of doing multiple cam swaps.
