Confused more now than when I began on parts list

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The only thing tall lower balljoints do is lower the car. Tall UPPER balljoints help the camber curve and make it handle better. Stop worrying about the balljoints and only get the tall uppers. Seap the steering column for a 79-later model and use the Astro shaft. It's worth it....
 
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for what it's worth, after I did the front blazer brakes, I had to use an old set of 14" rims for rollers, and didn't have a problem with the brakes hitting the rim... I did not, however, ever have the car on the road, so rubbing issues with the tie rods and control arms, are unknown to me... rear blazer or camaro brakes will require a spacer and 15" or larger wheel. HTH
 
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Man,,,, i'm pretty bummed out over the 14'' wheel limits. I've already sourced the jeep and the astro-shaft i had no idea the astro shaft wouldn't work on the 78'. I've also heard that the g-body tie rods will 'rub' the boots with the blazer spindle and brakes which i have already sourced as well. And I thought i read on here that the tall lower ball-joints will work but the tall uppers will not with the smaller wheels. humm???

Another option for the brakes if you want to not worry about the Blazer setup rubbing is the Powerstop upgrade or the Willwood replacement calipers, yes they are still single piston, but I read several places they are a larger piston and improves braking. Just installed the Willwoods on my Cutlass but its still a roller so haven't been able to test the stopping yett.
 
The only thing tall lower balljoints do is lower the car. Tall UPPER balljoints help the camber curve and make it handle better. Stop worrying about the balljoints and only get the tall uppers. Seap the steering column for a 79-later model and use the Astro shaft. It's worth it....

The .5" taller lower ball joints further improve the camber curves and roll center location, significantly reducing lateral roll center migration for more predictable behavior. They also correct the factory bump steer issues by raising the tie rod ends into proper alignment.
To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the lower control arm when the car goes through travel. The stock G-Body does not do this!
 
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The .5" taller lower ball joints further improve the camber curves and roll center location, significantly reducing lateral roll center migration for more predictable behavior. They also correct the factory bump steer issues by raising the tie rod ends into proper alignment.
To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the lower control arm when the car goes through travel. The stock G-Body does not do this!

Ok, I actually agree. Now how is he going to run tall upper AND lower balljoints, all while using 14" wheels AND keeping stock ride height? I'll wait....
 
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Ok, I actually agree. Now how is he going to run tall upper AND lower balljoints, all while using 14" wheels AND keeping stock ride height? I'll wait....

Yes will lose 1/2" of front ride height. If he wants it back he can simply use a 1/4" shim under the front spring. Here is a 14x7 with 3.5" BS on our Pro Series Stage 2 Front End( tall upper and lower BJ). No interference issues. Have a great day guys! 20181111_171313.jpg20181111_171307.jpg
 
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Yes will lose 1/2" of front ride height. If he wants it back he can simply use a 1/4" shim under the front spring. Here is a 14x7 with 3.5" BS on our Pro Series Stage 2 Front End( tall upper and lower BJ). No interference issues. Have a great day guys! View attachment 99618View attachment 99619


I have absolutely no problem with the lower ride height. This can me changed with cutting just the right amount from a new set of moog springs. Intended doing this as needed anyway.
 
Cutting springs will lower your ride height even more, thought you said you wanted stock, which you'll already be lower using tall lower balljoints. Unless you buy taller than stock springs and figure out the spring rate etc...
 
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