Couple of questions

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Gutlass

Apprentice
Nov 16, 2009
80
1
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Okay, I have a couple questions here I'm kinda stuck with my project. My motor is running fine and if it quits on me I have a well built 355 ( w/ somewhere around 450hp, the only reason its not im my car is cause of my transmission and diff which is the stock 2.41 7.5). So, at the moment i am more concerned about drivetrain and suspension.


i have the iceman tubular crossmember for me cutty with a 700r4, but i feel like it's on it's last two out of nine lives. So I was thinking should I rebuild it or just swap and make it manual which is what i've always wanted to do. I was looking on summit for the t-5 crossmember and it's the same as the 700r4 one, so would my iceman crossmember work for the t-5?

That was the first,
So, I think i should have asked this one first but w.e. Like I said I am in the search for new transmission ideas. What do you think would be best for me at the moment? I am running a 305 out of a truck non-centerbolt(something early 80's)and a 700r4 out of an 83 Z-28, but when I finish the motor it will be something between a 355ci and 383ci twin turbo with something planned at around 550 to 700 at the wheels and it will be a pro-touring build. Now, the thing is I don't want to buy a built transmission I want to buy a stock one and build it myself as this is my first build and I will be using it mostly to learn, but a pro-transmission builder will walk me trough the process. What do you think is me best option? I am on some what of a budget, as i am an 18 year waiter at a club, but i make decent money.

Third is suspension,
For upper and lower rear control arms what do you recommend?
But,to tell you truth, I kinda want to make my own, it doesn't look too hard and for the welding i will be learning from a guy the used to build ships and now is making trailers for 18-wheelers so i can trust his work.
Do you think it would be a safe thing to make my own adjustable uppers and lowers?
Also should I box my stocks for the time being( it would only take a couple of minute and very little metal).

Thanks in advance, I know it I'm asking a lot here but work with here I'm trying to learn as much possible before I go to UTI.
You guys might think I'm in way over my head, but my head is filled with nothing but knowledge(but i still feel like it's not enough), just haven't had the chance to apply it on a car and that was why I bought my favorite car( My Cutlass).
 
Questions is part of what this place is for. Its a knowledge base specific to our cars. First things first do the rear. The 2.41s & sooner or later the 7.5 has to go. In my opinion its not worth your time to box lowers for the price you can buy better. I used the Edelbrock double adjustable uppers for eazy adjustments after its on the car. Money well spent. You can use anybodys lowers whatever is priced well greaseable or delumn (sp?) bushings will a great plus if you keep the car long term. If you feel the need to break out the torch & welder, box in your frame, just as your ship builder welder will show you don't heat up the frame. Stick or auto is your preference. Have you ever lived with a stick for a while on a driver? Some people love it. For me its lost its novelty and the hassels outweigh the benefits but you may be different.
 
sorry I havent been on in a while, i work 45hr a week at night so i never get to change to check up on the post but now i got a couple day off every week so i have more time.
As far as manual goes i was driving my roommates 02 mustang every for about 4 month in miami traffic and i still love it!
But my 700 is running better now that it stopped leaking so i might go look at a 7.5 posi with 3.73 with new axles for $200 today. if i do ill box my lower since the car will be lift. the reason i want to at least box rear arms is because i'm running 265/50/15(came with the rims and are new for 100 bucks but i got some 10" wide rims in throwing on soon)in the back with irocs with a 1/4 inch spacer and their about 1/2 an inch away from the frame, so i want to eliminate any possible sideways movement.
heres a pic of my car btw first pic i post of it with i had pics of when i got it :/
37437_402608294211_558649211_455011.jpg
 
Just box your lowers and install new bushings, polly on the rear end side, and rubber on the frame side. As for uppers, I have the Edelbrock double adjustable ones. They are very nice, but overpriced in my books.

Also, does your car have a rear sway bar? I would add one if not (don't forget the spacer thing in the trailing arms before you box them). And, are you going for drag or cornering? If cornering, make sure you also add the F-41 front sway bar too (if you don't already have it). If you don't have the F-41 and you are going more for drag, the F-41 isn't really needed on the front.
 
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