crossmember...

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yourownself

Master Mechanic
Sep 8, 2008
336
37
28
stoughton, ma
has anyone modified their single hump to make it a double hump without seriously sacrificing structural integrity?
i haven't even gone under the car to see what i'm working with, but i figured i'd ask some of you guys if this is worth doing or if i should just drop the cash on an aftermarket one.
the biggest reason i'm looking at this is that i want to do undercar duals to do away with my sidepipes, but i'll be doing a transmission swap in the next year, and don't want to buy two crossmembers. i'm going to toss in a stock-ish 350 in front of my 350 transmission this winter/spring or so, and will be doing the gen II/III swap at the end of next season, so i'll buy a new crossmember when i do the swap, but for now, i want to go cheap (i already have everything i need, i just need to throw the 350 back together.)
 
People have done it. I think they just cut out a nice sized section and box it back in. I dont know what it does for structural integrity, and I dont know what sized pipes will be able to work with it.
 
crossmember

I have a double hump from summit, which is from cutsom crossmembers.com and it works pretty good it lines right up with my hooker super comps and I can fit a 3 inch pipe with an x pipe in them. If your keeping your th350 with the new engine swap your crossmember should remain the same, you might have to move the motor mounts ahead or back depending on the engine but you should be able to keep the same crossmember.
 
If your gonna be useing the same transmission, it won't move. The crossmember will stay the same regardless of what motor you have in it. Someone on here sent me pic's of a modified factory crossmember once but I can't remember where it is. I've got a G Force in mine and luv it. Personally I wasn't to into the idea of cutting and welding such an important piece but that's just me.
 
crossmember

I have a 455 30 over and a th 350 with dual 2.1/2 exhaust with stock crossmember. I used a cut off wheel and cut about a 4 inch notch in driverside then used that piece on top of where i cut out and welded it all the way around and not had any problems. this car had the 200 r4 in it. i used the stock mounts to bolt up to th350. works perfect and less than 2.00 dollars in welding stuff.
 
personnaly I kept mine stock ....
i built myself a knew one .quite easy with 1 x 4 x .250 thick tubing and some bent 4 inches .375 thick flat bar .
total cost below $25.00
it crosses staight under transmission mount now .no more curve in the crossmember.
Dan
 
bigdan, i like your idea best. do you have any pictures of your crossmember?

i plan on keeping the transmission with the first motor swap, but when i go gen III, i'll most likely be using a 4l60e.
 
Can anybody explain to me why in the write up for the g-force crossmember they say it will fit Cutlass's but not the Cutlass supreme? What is the difference between a regular cutlass and a cutlass supreme?
 
gs dewd said:
Can anybody explain to me why in the write up for the g-force crossmember they say it will fit Cutlass's but not the Cutlass supreme? What is the difference between a regular cutlass and a cutlass supreme?

Nothing is different with the Cutlass Supreme. Its pretty much a rumor that the engine is offset differently than other G Body cars, but is exactly the same as other G Bodies. I just installed a G Force crossmember into my Cutlass Supreme with an Olds engine and it fits fine. I am sure their is plenty of other people here that can tell you the exact same thing.
 
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