cutlass handling

[voodoocutty]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. I just bought myself an 86 cutlass v6 back in April. I had a turbo regal when I was in high school that I slammed into a boulder a mont after I got it. Anyway that car was my baby which is why I got myself another g body as soon as I could. Granted this car is much slower... speed was never really my thing, but one thing I noticed is this car rolls like no other when hitting the corners! I just like doing the twisties and Im pretty much looking to upgrade my suspension bit by bit. i am totally comfortable sacrificing comfort for performance. Soooo, if anyone has any experience in making these cars handle better, what should I do first? I checked out Savitske Classic and Custom and I found the street-comp 1 package that runs for about 500.00? Is that a good deal? I am soooo lost, basically I just want that point where the tires slip during a turn to come at 40 and not 30? 50 if that is possible. Right now I only have about 500 dollars to work with, but as more money comes along more work will be done. Basically I'm asking what is the most important part(s) I should get first and then what is the second and so on. sorry for the long post but I'm just trying to be specific

 

[FE3X CLONE]

I think first and foremost would be to install all of the F41 related pieces if yours doesn't have them. Frame braces, springs, shocks, etc.

To keep costs down you can look into using a set of Moog S-10 springs. Part number 5660 have around a 639lb.in. rating.

For a moderately priced, driver type of shock I prefer Bilstein.

Next would be the sway bars from an F41 equipped car. 1.25" front bar and I believe the rear bar is 7/8".

Quick ratio steering box is nice as well. Although it really doesn't help with the body roll but it does help give you confidence in the turns.

On my '87 I had the F41 suspension package and with the addition of a set of 17x8" wheels and 245 front and 255 rear tires, it handled exceptionally well for a mostly stock G-body.

Beyond that you can start to get into the aftermarket stuff like that sold by SC&C. Actually, something you might consider is giving Mark a call at SC&C. Tell him what your looking to do initially, your budget and where you would like to ultimately end up. He'll be able to give you a game plan on what to do. Just be prepared to talk because that man love to talk cars! lol

 

[othtim]

I think first and foremost would be to install all of the F41 related pieces if yours doesn't have them. Frame braces, springs, shocks, etc.

To keep costs down you can look into using a set of Moog S-10 springs. Part number 5660 have around a 639lb.in. rating.

For a moderately priced, driver type of shock I prefer Bilstein.

Next would be the sway bars from an F41 equipped car. 1.25" front bar and I believe the rear bar is 7/8".

Quick ratio steering box is nice as well. Although it really doesn't help with the body roll but it does help give you confidence in the turns.

On my '87 I had the F41 suspension package and with the addition of a set of 17x8" wheels and 245 front and 255 rear tires, it handled exceptionally well for a mostly stock G-body.

Beyond that you can start to get into the aftermarket stuff like that sold by SC&C. Actually, something you might consider is giving Mark a call at SC&C. Tell him what your looking to do initially, your budget and where you would like to ultimately end up. He'll be able to give you a game plan on what to do. Just be prepared to talk because that man love to talk cars! lol

I've done a lot of similar mods. I lowered the car as well, stiffer shocks (i used monroe sensatracs up front). Weight reduction has made a big difference in the "feel" of my vehicle. Taking as much weight as possible off the nose helps put the weight balance closer to 50/50. I also got an alignment with 2 degrees over stock camber up front. New bushings help as well. Got poly bushings all around.

If you're looking to spend only 500, hit up the junkyards and your local classifieds (kijiji or craigslist or whatever). I found a set of belltech rear springs and shocks, along with a set of front 2" drop spindles for 300. There are deals out there, man. And weight reduction is free, as well. Spend most of your $$ on tires and springs imo, though, if you want to take corners. Those are the "worst".

 

[pontiacgp]

I'd start out with making sure the body bushings are in good shape and the body isn't moving around on the frame

 

[85montemj]

x2 for the sway bar. They make a big difference. Poly bushings are pretty cheap and make a pretty big difference I hear. I think they're only like $180 for a full set? Good luck and welcome to the site!

 

[FE3X CLONE]

I'd personally try to stay away from poly bushings for the most part. They are fine for the body bushings, sway bar end links and frame mounts and really shouldn't be much of an issue on the front control arms. But putting them at all 8 locations on the rear control arms will just cause handling headaches due to the converging 4 link design.

For the rear your better off using a greaseable spherical bearing on the frame side of both the upper and lower control arms and poly bushings on the rear end side. This will let the rear suspension articulate much better without getting into binding and snap oversteer issues.

Boxing the lower rear control arms will help as well but don't box the uppers. Boxing the uppers will give too much rigidity to the suspension and will cause the car to ride harsh.

 

[voodoocutty]

thanks for all the help guys, I was looking around for the moog s10 5660 springs but I could only find the rear springs and not the front springs? Should I go with a different pair up front? I'm planning on upgrading shocks and springs first and then move on to bushings and by then I should have enough time to get some new 17x8 wheels.

I'd personally try to stay away from poly bushings for the most part. They are fine for the body bushings, sway bar end links and frame mounts and really shouldn't be much of an issue on the front control arms. But putting them at all 8 locations on the rear control arms will just cause handling headaches due to the converging 4 link design.

So I shouldn't get poly bushings for the rear control arm, but everywhere else is ok?

 

[jade81olds]

I did this upgrade to my 81 granny-suspension Cutlass when i got it a few years ago for about $700. I used mostly stock F41 parts (rear sway, HD front bars; F41 size 14" tires (205 70 14, i believe, on stock chrome 14's), front GP frame brace, and stock F41 springs I purchased over at oldspower.com(5660's and whatever the other end was, i can't recall) . i also upgraded sway bar end link and front sway bushings. KYB shocks and new BFG T/A's were the priciest part. that car handled sweet and better than my 35kmi MCSS i have now. best part is you can do most of the upgrades yourself if you have any kind of tool selection ( I didn't do the front springs myself).

I have a set of 14" Aluminum Olds Rally wheels if you're interested ('79 hurst style). Oops I forgot, everyone wants 17's nowadays. 🙁

 

[MrHernandez]

btw, you can use 82-92 s-10 drop spindles, theyre cheaper, also look at jrm motorsports, they have tubular a arms dirt cheap