DBW Cruise Control Wiring Diagram Needed

[81cutlass]

You need to read into this

Drive By Wire Infomration Vortec Engines

And this

DBW Cruise control wiring - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Conversions & Swaps - DBW Cruise control wiring - What are the requirements to make it work? I am feeding +12 v to the cruise control on switch signal. A +12v momentary signal to the set/coast input. The TCC signal to the PCM is getting +12v until the brake pedal is depressed. But the cruise...

ls1tech.com

Should have 6ohm on pin 6, lt Blue of the tac. My GP had 2 or 3 and I need over 4.5 for the ecm to see correct current draw and exit lockout mode.

It won't exit lockout mode until the car is going over 30ish

Does the psi harness use the PRNDL selection switch on the trans? There's like 5 and conditions the ecm needs to see before it allows the cruise to unlock.

 

[mlb602]

That diagram is for 99-02 dbc ecms, wiring is the same for the cruise switch 99-07. The signals for the brake switch are the same on your engine as the diagram, but the diagram routing is different because it used a throttle actuator module (TAC) throttle body driver instead of the cruise cable box used in the dbc cars.

Because you have a 60e it will work, 100%. I have about 60 hours trying to get cruise working on my car and can't due to my ecm, trans and engine being very odd. I know a decent amount but can't speak to the colors of wire.

Your PSI harness may not have the second wire. Does the torque converter lock and unlock when you touch the brakes? That's the first thing that is a signal. If it doesn't lock like normal and unlock when you tap the brakes I'm 100% sure it's not wired correctly. If it does unlock there a 50% chance its hooked up right.

Does cruise lockout ever turn off in the channels when logging while driving? The incorrect resistance or wiring on the brake switch will not allow it to exit lockout mode.

Great information! I really appreciate the help.

Looking back at my harness paper work, I do have the two wires. Yellow Wire - Brake Signal To 12V(Brake Applied) and Purple Wire - Brake Signal/TCC Ground(Brakes Not Applied)....I will verify that these are working properly in the next few days. I would image the the torque converter is locking and unlocking, because the car drives(shifts) great. I don't think the cruise lockout turns off in the channels while driving, as I kind of noticed that it wasn't changing on my test drive, but I will verify that as well. I just ordered some 20 ohms resistors, because from some quick research I think the range should be from 12-28 ohms. I will wire them into the purple and/or yellow wires????

Thanks again! This is really helping me out.

Mario

 

[81cutlass]

Great information! I really appreciate the help.

Looking back at my harness paper work, I do have the two wires. Yellow Wire - Brake Signal To 12V(Brake Applied) and Purple Wire - Brake Signal/TCC Ground(Brakes Not Applied)....I will verify that these are working properly in the next few days. I would image the the torque converter is locking and unlocking, because the car drives(shifts) great. I don't think the cruise lockout turns off in the channels while driving, as I kind of noticed that it wasn't changing on my test drive, but I will verify that as well. I just ordered some 20 ohms resistors, because from some quick research I think the range should be from 12-28 ohms. I will wire them into the purple and/or yellow wires????

Thanks again! This is really helping me out.

Mario

Yeah you need the added resistance in the yellow wire, 12V when the brake is applied.

I recommend unplugging the TAC harness from the module and probing the wire from there to the TAC ground when the brakes are applied (key off probably). Add resistance until you get ~6 ohm. Make sure to remember Ohm's rules and circuit (parallel vs series) I found the G body tail lights just don't have sufficient resistance to trigger the cruise. I found that info nowhere online.

If you get the cruise lockout to turn off in channels THEN you can look at tune issues (which it's unlikely that its the problem).

 

[mlb602]

Yeah you need the added resistance in the yellow wire, 12V when the brake is applied.

I recommend unplugging the TAC harness from the module and probing the wire from there to the TAC ground when the brakes are applied (key off probably). Add resistance until you get ~6 ohm. Make sure to remember Ohm's rules and circuit (parallel vs series) I found the G body tail lights just don't have sufficient resistance to trigger the cruise. I found that info nowhere online.

If you get the cruise lockout to turn off in channels THEN you can look at tune issues (which it's unlikely that its the problem).

Got it to work! Ended up using the brake switch from PSI Conversions and added in the 20ohm resistor. It was working in the scanner but with the brake wires(purple and yellow wires in PSI harness) was hooked up/properly, it kept the cruise control in lockout. Once those two wires were corrected it worked on a test drive.

Now I need to install a relay so the CC indicator shows on DD dash and P/N safety switch.

Thanks again!
Mario