Door adjustment

[90hurst/oldsguy]

What is the best way to adjust the doors on these cars? I know mine has had some type of damage but the doors do not adjust all the way in to make it flush. Need good advice on these doors

 

[78Delta88]

Trial and error and shims. Most use a floor jack to support the door. I've had good luck using an engine hoist to support door from top. Then from there ... Open and close, add subtract shims, adjust the striker, I think it's like 50 Torx. The actual door latch is set in the door not much adjustment there.

If you get a little wind noise after adjusted, just body weight and carefully tweak... Pull the frame from the top. That should seal the weather strip.

 

[86 Salon]

You need to remove the striker and put the window down and see how the door is aligned in the opening. If the only issue you have is the rear of the door is out too far, then you can move the striker in. The striker is not used to raise or lower the door to adjust gaps. There's plenty of adjustment in the hinges on the door and pillar You should not be able to feel the latch hitting the striker when the door and striker are adjusted properly. Usually the hinge bushings are worn allowing the door to sag. Open the door a little and grasp it at the rear and pull it up to see if there is play in the bushings. These cars had terrible gaps from the factory, but if you now notice the door not closing correctly, it's usually the hinge pins and bushings or someone opened the door way too far.

 

[90hurst/oldsguy]

Trial and error and shims. Most use a floor jack to support the door. I've had good luck using an engine hoist to support door from top. Then from there ... Open and close, add subtract shims, adjust the striker, I think it's like 50 Torx. The actual door latch is set in the door not much adjustment there.

If you get a little wind noise after adjusted, just body weight and carefully tweak... Pull the frame from the top. That should seal the weather strip.

I will definitely give that a try and keep working with it

 

[78Delta88]

Yep, and I was off a bit. On the coupe hard top ... No top frame. You can make a cradle, but most likely just use a floor jack.

I didn't specifically state it, but yes you make all your adjustments at the hinges that's also where you will put your shims if needed. The striker is only adjusted as the last thing, and only if it's needed.

I hope I didn't confuse anybody.

 

[90hurst/oldsguy]

You need to remove the striker and put the window down and see how the door is aligned in the opening. If the only issue you have is the rear of the door is out too far, then you can move the striker in. The striker is not used to raise or lower the door to adjust gaps. There's plenty of adjustment in the hinges on the door and pillar You should not be able to feel the latch hitting the striker when the door and striker are adjusted properly. Usually the hinge bushings are worn allowing the door to sag. Open the door a little and grasp it at the rear and pull it up to see if there is play in the bushings. These cars had terrible gaps from the factory, but if you now notice the door not closing correctly, it's usually the hinge pins and bushings or someone opened the door way too far.

I have brand new hinges so that eliminates the bad bushings

 

[90hurst/oldsguy]

Yep, and I was off a bit. On the coupe hard top ... No top frame. You can make a cradle, but most likely just use a floor jack.

I didn't specifically state it, but yes you make all your adjustments at the hinges that's also where you will put your shims if needed. The striker is only adjusted as the last thing, and only if it's needed.

I hope I didn't confuse anybody.

This is about as close as I can get it