they are factory in the grand national. Its called concert sound. I covered the lower doors with this upholstery carpet type fabric I have many many rolls of in different colors if anyone needs any
Door Panels
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Thats a 10. Two thumbs up for sure I'm slowly trying to get my interior redone w/ paint & vynl this gives me inspiration to go get my car back together. Is that upper trim around the hand rail (door slammer) stock? (the aluminum looking strip)
The Concert Sound II system used 5.25 in mids in the doors with 1 in tweeters in the factory 3.5 locations in the dash. It makes a HUGE difference in imaging. In my car, I run a set of Phoenix Gold separates that I got off E-Bay new in box for $65. They are probably leftovers from a previous year, but they sound reasonably good for the money. I also have a set of slim speaker baffles behind them so that they are sealed air tight from the back. If I wasn't so lazy I would post pics of the system on here. I still have to finish assembling the doors and doing the sound deadening and moisture barriers. Maybe I will take some pics today and post them later.
that would be cool Im interested in seeing those baffles. I want to do that in the back because I have 6x9 with the 4x10 adapters for the rear deck....they sound like crap figured with some kind of enclosure the sound would be better concentrated into the car rather than the trunk
I found out that I don't have any pics of them that detail the baffles very well. I just posted all of my door pics in my build thread, but all you can see is the edge of the foam peeking out. As for the rear speakers, several things could be causing you problems. I would look to see if the magnets are touching the torsion bars for the trunk first. Mine did when I had the 6x9's in there last time and you could hear the vibrations. Second, see if the back window is solidly attached to the car. I got my car when it was 8 years old, and it had come unglued at the bottom. The factory 4x10's would make it vibrate badly. I would also check to see that the speakers are wired with the correct polarity. Usually, the small connection is negative and the fat one is positive. I know that some companies ( I am looking at you, Pioneer!) used to not mark the terminals, and it was up to you to know what they meant. Remember that most 6x9's are intended to operate in an unsealed environment. They may sound better sealed, but in my experience they do give up some bass if you seal them in too tight a location. I plan to seal my back speakers, but I have a set of subs for bass so I do not need it from the 6x9's.
it was more than likely the polarity....I probably had it reversed. I always thought you would get better bass by sealing em up tight thanks for the heads up
My experience in this came from a 3rd gen Camaro. No matter what we did, it had no bass coming from the 6x9's mounted in the factory locations and baffles. We were told by the stereo shop that they were the reason it had no bass, and that nothing would change that. Just remember that the whole 6x9 adapter thing is far from ideal. They can sound OK, but they will never sound amazing. For that, I would suggest using a sub for bass and a crossover to keep the low frequencies from the other speakers. Even a single 10 in sub with a cheap amp will sound respectable if you are not trying to play booty music. Just be sure you are up to snuff with the satellites as they do far more for sound quality than subs do. You also want bigger front speakers than GM used in almost all of these cars. 3.5's just don't cut it for the front sound stage.
I'll list my system here for comparison: 2 Orion Cobalt (their cheap line) DVC 10's running a 2 ohm load into a Alpine V12 amp delivering a peak of 500 watts to the subs, Alpine CD player, Phoenix Gold separates with 5.25 in mid woofers in the doors and 1 in dome tweeters in the dash run off their own crossover network (installed using stock Regal Concert Sound II mounts and grilles), 2 Pioneer 6x9's in adapters (that I can't find the wire hanger bales for)...for now, and the satellites are all run off a 75 watt per channel Alpine amp. So, at best I have 800 watts and 8 speakers in the car. Most of the stuff is at least 10-15 years old, but still in good condition. The only new speakers are the fronts, and I got those on E-Bay for $65. The rest came from deals made with friends for their old stuff. I have a lot less than you would think in it, but it still sounds pretty good. I wish it had a better deck as this one lacks the built in EQ and sub gain/crossover that the JVC in my truck has. Plus, I could really use an iPod dock!
I'll list my system here for comparison: 2 Orion Cobalt (their cheap line) DVC 10's running a 2 ohm load into a Alpine V12 amp delivering a peak of 500 watts to the subs, Alpine CD player, Phoenix Gold separates with 5.25 in mid woofers in the doors and 1 in dome tweeters in the dash run off their own crossover network (installed using stock Regal Concert Sound II mounts and grilles), 2 Pioneer 6x9's in adapters (that I can't find the wire hanger bales for)...for now, and the satellites are all run off a 75 watt per channel Alpine amp. So, at best I have 800 watts and 8 speakers in the car. Most of the stuff is at least 10-15 years old, but still in good condition. The only new speakers are the fronts, and I got those on E-Bay for $65. The rest came from deals made with friends for their old stuff. I have a lot less than you would think in it, but it still sounds pretty good. I wish it had a better deck as this one lacks the built in EQ and sub gain/crossover that the JVC in my truck has. Plus, I could really use an iPod dock!
thanks for the info I am stereo retarded so once I decipher what all of that is that you just wrote Ill just copy you. m I have my wife's old alpine head unit out of her old car that seems to be a decent model.
Well, there is no need to copy my system as it is not the best or most optimal. It is just doing the best with what I had on hand. If money were no object, I could have come up with something better and more space efficient using newer components. There are new shallow mount subs that use a much smaller box that I would use if I were to build it from scratch using all new parts. I would also not use the 6x9's out back, but stay with 4x10's instead. For the front, I would have used better speakers, but needless to say, they are quite pricey! If all you really want is something that sounds good and doesn't break the bank, you could use a 2 cheap Pioneer 10's from Wal Mart and a 300 watt amp along with the amp in the deck and separates up front with 4x10's in the back deck. If I were to build from scratch, I would even consider a efficient single 12 in the trunk like something from JL Audio instead. I like keeping the trunk space as open as possible so that it can continue to operate as a trunk, and not just a giant speaker box. After all, I want my car to be at least as practical as a Hot Rod as it was as a grandpa car when it was new.
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