Dr Olds Burnout Machine
- Thread starter olds307 and 403
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Well, I got the new A/C switch in the compressor. I must have wired it wrong. Now I have no power at the green wire. I popped the 30 amp fuse, replaced and still no power at the green wire. I still have a very slight leak at the new switch time for JB weld. Can you burn out a controller?
I comment on this car on the wiring and cooling on this car. It is beyond horrible!!!!!! There was so many cut from the CCC removal and burnt wires like the blower fan and A/C relay when I got it. I am pretty sure the A/C wouldn't turn on through the controller last time and I ran a toogle switch. Seems like that is the case again! Plus the cooling is brutal. The radiator that is half plugged that was in the 88 would creep up 215 with the 260. It would hit 235 with the gauge with the 9.6 to 1 350 in a very short highway run. Yes this gauge reads 10 degrees high according to my temp gun but still. I was expecting driving it in the 70S that it would heat quickly, it has not. Not that I have taken it for much of a highway run bit still. A 4 blade fan with no shroud and it has been 175 max! I took the 34" wide Copper Brass radiator that never got above 190 with the 350 in my 70S. It is leaking at the bottom hose, I tightened it so much that it crushed in the connector. I straightened it the best I could, a tiny leak now. The 7 pound rad cap was leaking, so I put on a 16 pound cap. I have new Gates lower hose for a 70 Cutlass. I also bought a 3 pack of exhaust pipe expanders to fix the bottom connector. I know there is now a A/C condenser in the way and I have the Stratus fans only on low with key on since the fan controller I bought the probe never worked so I have a fuse in between the connections. I ran it for 5 minutes working on the A/C and it climbed to 200 on the gauge. This a 260 with 1" thick cylinder walls. I also bubbled back through the cap. It should not get that hot, the 403 was a nightmare in this car. This 88 has been very frustrating to own just for the above reasons. I have learned a lot about cooling systems, what works and what doesn't. Just my rant, good thing the nearest cliff is a half hour drive!
Well, I went back through the fuse box. The A/C fuse was hidden behind the dash light connector and melted. I fixed it and the gauge connection. I assumed the blown fuse was the A/C, writing worn off, thinking it was the brake light fuse. Of course I had to play with the blower fan connection at the controller to get it working again. I slowed down the leak with JB weld over the new switch, still need more freon but everything is functioning again.
Well I put on the new hose for a 70 Cutlass, since that is what the rad came out of. I used a small tail pipe expander and it mostly straightened the nipple. I had to cut 2" off the new Gates lower hose or it kinked, even with the spring inside. Well took the car for a drive there is good and bad. The good, the serpentine belt stayed on and no issues. The transmission is no longer leaking any amount. The coolant leak is fixed. The bad, my cruise didn't work, I should be able to fix it. The car ran around 200+, 210 on the gauge. Assuming the temp gun is right. Plenty hot for a 260, don't think I would consider reinstalling the 350. This cars cooling has always been poor. Also the 15 psi oil pressure with 20w50 oil blows, tired little motor. Also the 18 mpg imperial was dreadful, yes it was over half 10 percent ethanol but 8 mpg less? I even topped up the tire pressure before leaving, if anything overinflated. Also it has taller tires so 150 rpm less. Maybe the headers and 2.5" exhaust killed the mileage? Also I have given up on the A/C as there has to be a bigger leak.
I realize maybe that was a little harsh. The ride was comfortable and uneventful, nothing blew up. The cruise wire was unplugged, pretty sure. I may do the 350 swap back into the 88, it will be sitting collecting dust once the 424 is built. I need to also do a compression test on the 260, see how sickly it is besides a worn bottom end. I need to look at the rad maybe completely make mouldings around the radiator along with the Stratus fans. I may remove the A/C components for now, maybe the condensor is half plugged. With the wider rad from the 70, which never went above 195 according to the gauge, it should stay right at thermostat temp, not that 200 to 205 is hot but it is a thick wall 260.
Here are the compression numbers.
1-100, 3-110, 5-100, 7-110
2-110, 4-110, 6-110, 8-110
I assume what I should expect from a 260 with some wear.
1-100, 3-110, 5-100, 7-110
2-110, 4-110, 6-110, 8-110
I assume what I should expect from a 260 with some wear.
Do you think you could drop the pan and swap the rod and main bearings from underneath? It wouldn't do anything for wore cam bearings, but should give enough of a bump in pressure to not need 20w-50 oil anymore.
I considered using a good 330 crank I have but this only a temporary motor. Yeah 15 psi at 2000 rpm isn't good. I added a bottle of the Kleenflo motor "honey" now nearly 20 psi, whoopie. I may drain out the coolant and put in fresh stuff. I might have to grind the cradle so I turn the drain c*ck. Other than that drove fine, even passed with ease on the highway. The 260 sounds awful at high rpms, probably some pinging but it loves a massive amount of timing at low rpm. The plugs are nice medium brown but have a tinge of white which might be the colour they are actually firing now since there are only a couple hundred Kilometers on them with the headers.
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