"Fasten seat belt light" and "Temp" ligh

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83cutlasssedan

Greasemonkey
May 16, 2007
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Manitoba, Canada
www.cardomain.com
I know two completely separate issues. The temp light on my 83 non computer controlled cutlass has come on and stayed on even when engine is cold. Any ideas?

Also, how do I fix the fasten seat belt light issue?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
find the coolant temp sensor(s), there are probably 2--1 for the gauge and one for the ECM. test for power or ground. check the wiring for an open or short to ground. if the wiring is fine (or you can do this secong, after testing +/-) unplug the connectors one at a time and see if the light goes out, if not then short them to ground.if the light goes out with the plug shorted/opened to gnd then it's a bad sender. this is kind of a generic test procedure. without a wiring diagram for your car i can't be more specific. however, i'm a mechanic. i've used this procedure a number of times with out problems.
 
the process works anyway, it's just simpler since you only have to find the one sensor in the coolant system. test the connector for power and ground. if those are good see if the light turns of when you unplug it or if you short it---if so the wiring is fine, get a new sensor.
 
...or you could just take the bulbs out and install a mechanical temperature guage...thats just what I would do :idea:
 
Which engine does it have? The temp light is turned on by a single wire that is the ground end of the circuit. So, if the wire shorts out, it will put the temp light on all of the time. It is usually a dark green wire that runs the light. The switch simply closes when it is too hot, grounding the bulb through the engine block which is basically a chassis ground like pretty much every other metal part of the car.

The fasten seat belts light is wired to the driver's seat belt buckle. The wire runs under the driver's seat and is black on my car. There are two wires in it, so it switches the positive side of the bulb.

Here is a pic of my seatbelt switch wire. It is black and by the reinforcement bar going across the floor and by the seat bracket that I just welded in.
m_f124111b77fe13a54dd1ee945bcaca31.jpg
 
Thanks for the response. My engine is a 3.8L...I havent had time to look around too much. Do you know where the sensor might be?

There is a black wire seperated with a harness running right next to the seat belt on the floor. It seems to look ok, where do you think the problem could be?
 
83cutlasssedan said:
Thanks for the response. My engine is a 3.8L...I havent had time to look around too much. Do you know where the sensor might be?

There is a black wire seperated with a harness running right next to the seat belt on the floor. It seems to look ok, where do you think the problem could be?

I would just unplug the wire by the seatbelt and see if it goes off. It should break the circuit. As for the placement of the switch, I am looking at my GM service manual for an 85 and it is in the intake manifold poking out of the front of the engine, above the water pump and below the lift bracket. It's slightly right ( pass side) of the center of the engine. It has a single flat tang coming out of it to which a black connector slips over it. It is likely a dark green wire. Don't pull the wires off the cylindrical connector next to it but closer to the distributor. That isn't it-if your car is so equipped. My manual is for a computer controlled US spec car and may have some additional things that do not apply to your car.
 
My 85 Cutlass with a 3.8 is doing the same thing. I got codes 15 and 23 from the check engine light. It idles rough and failed an emission test.

Emission test:
High Speed 2369 RPM
Reading / Limit
HC 49 / 220
CO 3.23 / 1.20
CO2 12.3 /
O2 .57 /
 
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