First engine project...

Status
Not open for further replies.

83cutlasssedan

Greasemonkey
May 16, 2007
239
1
0
45
Manitoba, Canada
www.cardomain.com
I'm putting an aftermarket intake and 4 barrel carb on my Buick 231. This will be my first time doing anything like this and i was wondering if anyone had any tips for me. Basically wondering if there is anything else I should be doing while I'm in the process of this installation. I would like to put a cam in eventually but that will require some machining of the heads so I am going to do this project first. Any comments or suggestions please....

Thanks
 
well if i may.. i understand where your at in regards to your engine project.. and i want to be quite honest with you.. Dont make the same mistakes i made.. learn from us IDIOTS!! save your money brother.. SAVE IT!! Save it for a nice sound Olds 350/403 or AHEM *Cough* *cough* Chebby.. Sorry Bowtie guys its an Olds i like to keep my engines brand specific..

that 231 is capable of making some power..not much.. its soo much easier to spend just a tad more.. on a running V8.. i totally dont buy into ppl saying its going to cost a lot to do a swap.. i have $700 total into my running 455.. most of my stuff was bought 2nd hand.. and fished out of junkyards.. if i had the sources i have now.. 6-7yrs ago.. i would have saved myself thousands!!

but as to your original question.. tinkering with your little 3.8.. Take lots of pictures if your not sure where things go.. make lots of nots, tag wires and vaccuum lines.. expect some little messes and getting greas.. and most importantly when reassembling.. CLeanliness is extremely important!!!
 
well if i may.. i understand where your at in regards to your engine project.. and i want to be quite honest with you.. Dont make the same mistakes i made.. learn from us IDIOTS!! save your money brother.. SAVE IT!! Save it for a nice sound Olds 350/403 or AHEM *Cough* *cough* Chebby.. Sorry Bowtie guys its an Olds i like to keep my engines brand specific..

that 231 is capable of making some power..not much.. its soo much easier to spend just a tad more.. on a running V8.. i totally dont buy into ppl saying its going to cost a lot to do a swap.. i have $700 total into my running 455.. most of my stuff was bought 2nd hand.. and fished out of junkyards.. if i had the sources i have now.. 6-7yrs ago.. i would have saved myself thousands!!

but as to your original question.. tinkering with your little 3.8.. Take lots of pictures if your not sure where things go.. make lots of nots, tag wires and vaccuum lines.. expect some little messes and getting greas.. and most importantly when reassembling.. CLeanliness is extremely important!!!

x2 good info.
 
Your goals also have to be considered - If you're not racing the auto, it's also cools to see the gains from you're tweaks....
 
Buy some black silicone, and use it instead of the end seals that come with the manifold gasket kit. Just don't use it on the gaskets that seal the ports! Gasoline will dissolve silicone and cause a massive vacuum leak. The reason for this is that the end seals usually don't seal that well. Be sure to use a healthy bead of it too. I like to use it without the plastic tip that comes with the tube of silicone. Also, get some brake parts cleaner to clean the mating surfaces before using the silicone. Otherwise, it won't stick. Another thing you want to do is be sure to clean the old gasket off the heads using a razor blade and/or 220 grit wet or dry sand paper. While doing this though, be sure to put an old T shirt in the valley and stuff the ports with paper towels so that the old gasket materials don't contaminate the engine. This also helps if you drop a nut or bolt while cleaning stuff. Likewise, until you are ready to bolt on the new carb, keep duct tape over the inlet of the manifold. This will keep bolts and washers from dropping down the manifold and going into the engine. I say this, sadly, from experience.
 
that great advice thanks..

As for the 350 swap, I don't have the tools, or the resources for such a project. And it can't be cheap to have someone else do it. Besides thats half the fun doing it yourself right
I think I'll be able to wake up this 3.8 quite a bit in the end.
 
beeterolds said:
but as to your original question.. tinkering with your little 3.8.. Take lots of pictures if your not sure where things go.. make lots of nots, tag wires and vaccuum lines.. expect some little messes and getting greas.. and most importantly when reassembling.. CLeanliness is extremely important!!!

beeterolds has got it right take lots of pix cuz if you ever get stuck you can go to those pix and it'll tell ya where stuff goes thats how i learned and by doin that i learned and i learned quick
 
beeterolds said:
but as to your original question.. tinkering with your little 3.8.. Take lots of pictures if your not sure where things go.. make lots of nots, tag wires and vaccuum lines.. expect some little messes and getting greas.. and most importantly when reassembling.. CLeanliness is extremely important!!!

beeterolds has got it right take lots of pix cuz if you ever get stuck you can go to those pix and it'll tell ya where stuff goes thats how i learned and by doin that i learned and i learned quick
 
Okay, my edelbrock intake prescribes using Fel-pro #1200 intake gaskets or oem equivalent. I was wondering if someone can explain to me what the valley pan gasket is for and if I am supposed to use that as well.

Is there any other gaskets I will need to get?

Thanks
 
83cutlasssedan said:
Okay, my edelbrock intake prescribes using Fel-pro #1200 intake gaskets or oem equivalent. I was wondering if someone can explain to me what the valley pan gasket is for and if I am supposed to use that as well.

Is there any other gaskets I will need to get?

Thanks

not sure what you mean by valley pan gaskets, but the Fel Pro set will come with all you need to swap manifolds. When you put the gaskets on and line them up, it's easier if you put a few *small* dabs of RTV on the back so they stick to the heads when you set the manifold on them. Also put extra RTV silicone in the corner where the cork gasket meets the intake gasket - this area is the most prone to leaking.... if you use the cork gaskets (some people dont) coat them with silicone

just get a carb gasket and you're good, if you need anything else a local store should carry it

Also look up what the torque specs are and in what order you need to torque the manifold bolts
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor