First start in 3 years...

[Bonnewagon]

Actually 3 years is not so bad. I'd bet with a fresh battery charge and some gas squirted down the carb it would fire right up. Then he could check all the other stuff. Fixing the transmission dipstick is the most important thing but I wouldn't even touch the cork until the motor has been woken up.

 

[pencero]

I had a bad exp w the fuel filter 1x. It was nearly a brand new but deposits in the fuel lines still slipped by and fk'd up my carb. Now I just use brand new 1 anytime trying to start older chevrolet. It's only a few $ anyway...

 

[Intragration]

^^^ the STP 'oil additive' sold at most gas stations in the dark blue bottle can make up for missing zinc/ ZDDP (NOT the 'smoke away' version in the slightly lighter blue container, thats a different formula)

No, STP can NOT "make up for missing zinc". Based on my research -- and DON'T take my word for it, look it up yourself -- the STP oil additive does NOT have enough zinc to make up for reduced-zinc oil. These things are subject to change, but it's my understanding that the STP only has 1900 PPM ZDDP. If it's a half-quart, in a 5 quart system this will only raise your average ZDDP by 172 PPM. You need somewhere around 1,200 PPM of ZDDP to be in a safe range, and there is NO standard oil today (except those specifically formulated with zinc, VR1 for example) that will be raised to 1,200 PPM by simply adding STP. The Rislone additive that specifically mentions zinc has 5,000 PPM ZDDP, this would raise the average zinc content in a 5 quart system by about 455 PPM, and even THIS would still not be enough for me using reduced-zinc oil, and not as much as plain old VR1, which claims 1,200 PPM.

This STILL doesn't take into account that on first start, your additive isn't going to be mixed with your oil, AND, the additive is going to change other characteristics of your oil, possibly adversely, as opposed to using the RIGHT oil in the first place.

If you care about your car, it's my strong suggestion that you do a little bit of digging and find out for yourself if you're better off using a quality oil with the additives already engineered into it, or buying a bottle of some cheap oil modifier and throwing it in because it's easy, and some other guy says he hasn't had any problems yet. Just my two cents.

 

[pencero]

Yes but everyone makes mistakes I only mentioned the stp additive b/c its working for me. I didnt' realize rislone made the better product but I'm not surprised, having heard some stories of 'cheap-ness' on the mfr line firsthand from a worker about dupont when I was in DE last year (working a liquor store ON dupont blvd actually lol). I guess so much for brand loyalty. A chemical is a chemical and I will get rislone next time for sure; not paying triple to stp for the same thing wtf...

 

[pencero]

OK I wasn't telling people to 'buy cheap oil' though let me clear that up. I meant like, its better to buy cheap oil than waste $ on something like royal purple. Lots of young kids approach an old car that just sat years w/ 'royal purple' or 'ams oil' but thats kind of stupid waste of $ just get regular oil is all I was sying b/c that never gave benefit to firing up the car. I had too much exhaust smoke w/ penzoil and castrol so now I don't use those for GM anymore. Like inta said; not enough zinc zddp in those brand that works good in my other cars.

 

[Intragration]

OK I wasn't telling people to 'buy cheap oil' though let me clear that up. I meant like, its better to buy cheap oil than waste $ on something like royal purple. Lots of young kids approach an old car that just sat years w/ 'royal purple' or 'ams oil' but thats kind of stupid waste of $ just get regular oil is all I was sying b/c that never gave benefit to firing up the car. I had too much exhaust smoke w/ penzoil and castrol so now I don't use those for GM anymore. Like inta said; not enough zinc zddp in those brand that works good in my other cars.

My best advice is, anyone who wants to know about oil, additives, and best practices, should look into it themselves. There is a lot of bad information out there, and what works for one guy and his engine may not work for another guy. Flat tappet cars will generally benefit from a higher zinc/ZDDP base-content, zinc additives may not provide the same protection as high-ZDDP oil, and may in fact HURT the protective capacity of various oils. The OP was looking for guidance, my advice was intended to steer him towards things that can't possibly harm his engine, may help, may cost a little more money...and away from things that might save him a couple bucks, but could potentially lead to trouble.

Put another way, different people have different opinions about what is a "waste of money". It's hard to call quality, engineered products that are tested and meet specifications required by one's engine a waste of money. The argument could be made that saving a few bucks on sub-standard oil (according to the requirements of one's engine) which results in damage to the engine was a waste of money. If the engine isn't damaged in this case, was this wise? Or was it luck?

 

[axisg]

Actually 3 years is not so bad. I'd bet with a fresh battery charge and some gas squirted down the carb it would fire right up. Then he could check all the other stuff. Fixing the transmission dipstick is the most important thing but I wouldn't even touch the cork until the motor has been woken up.

🙂 pull the stick to make sure there is oil and not full of water, hook up the cables, squirt some gas and let it go. One you get it up to temp and determine any leaks then start changing the oil and fuel filters. Then let it roll ahead and back under its own power to check the trans and brakes. Really press hard with both feet on the brake pedal as I have seen too many lines rust out on parked cars and you don't what to have no brakes on a test drive. Unless its been parked under water; 3 years is really not that long.