Found an Olds 455 w/th350

[kornball426]

Guy claims zero miles on a rebuild on both, built it for a 71 Skylark and now he's getting kicked out of his house, and is moving out of state and can't take it with him. And he wants to get a Buick engine for it anyway. I think I'll go take a look at it, pull a valve cover and see if I can borrow a scope to look down the bores and see if his claims seem true. Anyway, I know this has been answered a zillion times... But other than motor mounts, and modifying or removing the AC box, what needs to be done to put this in a 307 moldmobile powered car? IIRC the TH350 will bolt right up to the cross member in the car... And I need motor mounts (part number would be great I can get them right at work), and what else? Ideally probably heavier duty springs but I'll deal with that later. :lol:

The engine doesn't have a carb or distributor with it, could I temporarily get by with the the stock 86 307 Q-jet and dizzy? Obviously I would upgrade, but just as a temporary solution for a couple weeks. Will the drive shaft bolt up? Going from a TH200 to the TH350? I don't have a lot of money is the problem, but it's become kind of urgent that I get a new motor in the car... I blew the intake gasket on the 307 and it inhaled a lot of coolant, and when I saw the crud and smelled the burned oil and antifreeze inside the motor... It's pretty much toast. I'm sure it will still run and I should have it put back together in a day or two but this engine's days are numbered. The inspection is up in a month or two, so I think I'll get it inspected then do the swap... This way it'll pass, and I can get it by emissions next year by keeping it under 5,000 miles.

I think I can get the pair for under 1,000 bucks... Which is about all the money I have left I haven't been able to save anything for months it'll tap out my account but I think it's better than buying some piece of crap replacement junker and have it break down in a couple weeks anyway. Probably shouldn't have bought that Firebird... But oh well it'll be worth it. I might have to see if I've got any matured bonds.

 

[kornball426]

Oh and do you think the manifolds will hook up to my stock exhaust until I get the money to put a better system on it?

 

[joe_padavano]

Oh and do you think the manifolds will hook up to my stock exhaust until I get the money to put a better system on it?

No. The closest are the A-body W/Z manifolds and these have different flanges than the 307 manifolds. Othe BBO manifolds will be completely different. The CCC carb and distributor will only work with the computer. Non-computer HEI distributors run $15 in most wrecking yards.

 

[Blake442]

...But other than motor mounts, and modifying or removing the AC box, what needs to be done to put this in a 307 moldmobile powered car? ...

The 455 will drop right in on the 307 mounts. Go to the parts store and buy a fresh pair for about $8 a piece.
No need to modify the a/c box unless your body mounts are severely worn out and compressed. Certainly don't remove it.
Going from TH-200M to TH-350 is a direct swap, so your driveshaft and crossmember will be the same.
No need to swap springs, as the 455 isn't much heavier than a 307. I use my original springs in my 442.

 

[kornball426]

But in other words the the distributor would drop in, it just won't have advance and what not without the computer and CCC? Are the SBO and BBO dizzys the same? What about other BOP parts because my boss has a Q-Jet from a 73 Buick with a 455, and two distributors one of which I think is for a Buick 350 and the other a Buick 455. Edit: and his brother is a carb genius, so he can rebuild it for me. I've never rebuilt a 4 barrel, so I dunno if it's something I want to try... :lol:

And thanks Blake... Good info I think I can get a set of mounts for about 10 bucks with the discount I get from work. The springs in my car are totally shot, which is why i'd upgrade to heavier ones anyway but it's not immediately important. 😛

I think I'm going to try to get that setup... Hopefully it really is a fresh rebuild we'll see when I check it out.

 

[MrHernandez]

There was a guy selling a 455 on the memphis craigslist for $200, complete motor carb to oil pan, because the weekend was here and he needed Budweiser and Blow if I had the money i woulda got it

 

[kornball426]

So would I... They're expensive up here. 600 bucks for a core usually, up to about 1500 for one that's supposedly low miles, and up to 5 or 6 grand for ones from shops.

There's two for sale right now for the same price, this one... and another one that the guys claims has 10,000 miles on it. It's a little closer about 20 minutes away instead of about 40 minutes, but it looks like it was just pulled out of some pile but supposedly it's a 71 out of a Cutlass.

 

[Bonnewagon]

I would grab it if it checks out. You should be able to tell right away if it's truly 0 miles. That Buick carb will work fine, as the fuel inlet is forward like all BOP and will be jetted close to what you need. The Buick distributor I think is wrong, as I believe only Olds and Pontiac are the same short length, and turn counter-clockwise. Check the vacuum canister to verify which way it rotates.

 

[olds307 and 403]

You need an Olds exclusive distributor. If he is going Buick, he should at least include the distributor.

 

[joe_padavano]

But in other words the the distributor would drop in, it just won't have advance and what not without the computer and CCC?

Correct.

Are the SBO and BBO dizzys the same?

Yes. All 1964-1990 Olds distributors fit all BBO and SBO.

What about other BOP...

Nope, only "O". All GM engine lines use unique parts. Of course the Q-jet will bolt on, but nothing else crosses over.