Found one ty
- Thread starter nycutlass
- Start date
That looks like later year with outlet in side, I think 83 the outlet was on bottom with separate tube that connects to compressor suction/discharge hose?
Either way Rockauto has both types under the Four Seasons brand, not too expensive at all?
Either way Rockauto has both types under the Four Seasons brand, not too expensive at all?
Firstly, is that a picture of your current setup. Because as mentioned, that's the newer 85-up system. Which is fine. It will fit and function if you have all of it. But you can't mix and match 83 accumulators and the newer hoses, and vice-versa.
IMO, DO NOT USE A USED ACCUMULATOR. It's best to go ahead and buy a new one if yours has been open for a while. Cheap insurance. Leave it sealed up until you just HAVE to install it. Get everything else bolted up and try to save the accumulator for as late of installation as possible. Why you say? Because of moisture in the air. The dessicant can and WILL suck up moisture. If you're using PAG or any of that other 134 stuff that just won't give up moisture even under vacuum, you could end up fugging yourself. Air/moisture is skull and crossbones for your A/C system.
It's even more beneficial if you add 3 ounces of oil to the compressor, one in the condensor, a couple in the evaporator, and a couple in the accumulator right before installation, then button up the system, and then pulling a vacuum on the system as soon as practical. The dessicant can be compromised if you just leave it open for long periods of time.
GM had a bulletin out around 1993 talking about 134a conversions and dessicants. The newer aftermarket accumulators run with XH-7 or XH-9 dessicant, which is compatible with R12 or 134a. GM did tests that older R12 system accumulators that were 5 years old or less was ok for conversion. However, they state that dessicant needs to be replaced (read that as accumulator) every 7 years due to depletion of the dessicant under normal use. So if you listen to that logic, you might as well buy a new one.
IMO, DO NOT USE A USED ACCUMULATOR. It's best to go ahead and buy a new one if yours has been open for a while. Cheap insurance. Leave it sealed up until you just HAVE to install it. Get everything else bolted up and try to save the accumulator for as late of installation as possible. Why you say? Because of moisture in the air. The dessicant can and WILL suck up moisture. If you're using PAG or any of that other 134 stuff that just won't give up moisture even under vacuum, you could end up fugging yourself. Air/moisture is skull and crossbones for your A/C system.
It's even more beneficial if you add 3 ounces of oil to the compressor, one in the condensor, a couple in the evaporator, and a couple in the accumulator right before installation, then button up the system, and then pulling a vacuum on the system as soon as practical. The dessicant can be compromised if you just leave it open for long periods of time.
GM had a bulletin out around 1993 talking about 134a conversions and dessicants. The newer aftermarket accumulators run with XH-7 or XH-9 dessicant, which is compatible with R12 or 134a. GM did tests that older R12 system accumulators that were 5 years old or less was ok for conversion. However, they state that dessicant needs to be replaced (read that as accumulator) every 7 years due to depletion of the dessicant under normal use. So if you listen to that logic, you might as well buy a new one.
the picture i posted above is not mine just a reference. by the time i got 83 cutlass everything was gone no dryer and compressor. so im starting with nothing im not even sure which one i need at this point. but what you are saying makes very good sense. would you have a picture of the one that should be in that car? rock auto is showing FOUR SEASONS 33205 and UAC RD5027C
GPD 1411326 Tank and Tubes Kit for my 83 cutlass.
GPD 1411326 Tank and Tubes Kit for my 83 cutlass.
Last edited:
Rockauto.com has it all dude. Not everything GM, but still, all the stuff you would need to build your system except your compressor listed below.
I'd go with the UAC RD5027C because it's all one unit. Less fittings, less leak chances. JMO.
Typical junk you're going to need depending on what's missing. At #8, it forgets there's an orifice tube in there.
that's perfect ! I will check it all out tomorrow see what I'm missing to be honest i think ill just buy it all new lol. i been enjoying this car so much i think I'm going to the next step with it and do AC. one question i have will this office tube work with 134 ?
Yes, the orifice tubes are pretty much all the same for those era cars. I've seen some cases where slightly different sized, or from different MFG (ie; Ford) style are substituted, but IMHO just go with the OEM replacement. I can assure you it will work fine and be cold as the north pole if everything else in the system is working correctly.
Notably, if you're rebuilding the entire system (for R134a) a parallel flow condenser is a must. Even if it's been replaced, or converted (to R134a) in the past if there's been any contamination, or compressor failure since it should be replaced as you can't flush them out like you could with the original R12 ones.
Also, if you're replacing the pressure cycling switch you'll want to use the one for R134a as well since the on/off pressures are going to be slightly different than the original R12 pressures. Some have had success with turning the adjustment screw, but I've just simply replaced them.
Lastly, I've found the evaporators (albeit easy to get out and change) to be pretty durable from that era meaning they rarely leak but you do want to pull that top part of the HVAC box under the hood and get that all cleaned out from years of crap likely built up at the bottom. With the AC system open lift that evaporator out, and roll up sleeves with shop vac, or garden hose, etc. making sure the condensation drain at the bottom is clear and drains well. When you put the system all together you'll want to make sure you pull a good vacuum on the system, and let it sit for at least an hour or more (I like overnight if you can) to make sure there are no leaks before you charge, or bring it to get charged.
Search this forum, there's been quite a few threads on AC system repairs, parts and component lists, etc. but like 69HurstOlds provided, Rockauto is a great source. I recently did a complete rebuild on a friends 86 MCSS and while I used RA for some stuff, I actually got 90% of the Four Seasons parts from Summit Racing, as they had in stock, and don't do the (one thing I hate) at RA which is charge separate shipping fees for every "warehouse" the parts may be coming from. When you have a long list of parts from RA, that's almost bound to happen unless you spend a lot of time to pick and choose parts that can all be shipped from same location which isn't always possible...but I digress.
One last heads up if you plan to charge the system yourself (vs bring to an AC shop) is I was in my local Walmart just today, and they had the 12oz R134a cans for $7, not sure if that's just a clearance price (end of summer??) but I'm thinking to go grab 5-6 cans to keep on the shelf since there's a good chance the prices will be going up in the future as things tend to do...so might want to check your local store if they have same deal and grab it in advance, they have long shelf life. They only had about 3-4 cases left (approx. 100 cans).
Underlined and bolded for effect. Totally slipped my mind on this. While RA is usually pretty good on prices, the shipping can eat you alive on big orders that have to come from different places. Totally agree on this. Best thing to do is throw everything you want in the cart first and see how it plays with shipping. Remove stuff you don't absolutely have to have coming from another warehouse and see how it affects shipping. Depending on what you buy, sometimes even coming from 2 warehouses may still be cheaper than buying somewhere else. Use your math skills.
As far as the 134a, it's 9.98 per can at my local wally world. $7 is a screamin' deal, actually if you need a few cans.
