frame swap questions.

[zachkuby87]

Hey guys have an idea and would like a few opinions and some insight. As maybe a few might remember I have an 85 cutlass that is pretty clean but has a few nasty spots in the frame I dont think theyre horrible or irreversible bit id rather not mess with tearing the entire car apart to fix a few rust holes. So I found a frame out of an 82 regal locally its really clean for 300 bucks. Some surface rust but other than that looks pretty good. Comes with complete rear end original regal rims with decent all season tires all suspension/steering components. Im thinking of buying it cleaning it up painting/por15 it and basically building my way up until its ready for a body. My questions are is the frame a direct swap? I plan on going with an ls motor cant I set this all up and drop the body on n go so to speak. I mean as long as I take the proper steps would it be too crazy to yhink I could swap frames over the weekend in the back yard with basic tools? I daily drive this car and that is the maon reason this idea stands out because I dont have to stop driving it to swap stuff out I can just build onto the frame until its ready. Any opinions advice?

 

[Fox80]

Are you talking about setting the body on a newly LS powered frame and getting it back together AND running in a weekend? That would be a very big task even with a lift, the body swap over is not what will hold you up it will be the complete change in running gear, if you keep the LS stock you have to wire up the computer and mount that, do something to provide the fuel to it (change the tank or plumb an external pump) look into some of the guys on here that have done the LS swap, so you can see a lot of things must be done, if I were you and your just trying to get the frame changed so you can continue to drive it just swap your drive train over to the new frame for now. As far as setting the motor in the frame before it goes under the car, I would not do it that way without a lift, I have done this with the "4x4 and jack stand" method it's not that hard, it's easier with some help. Seems to me the motor in the frame would make it harder, you could only roll the frame out from the front and vice versa with the new one. And if by "backyard" you are saying in a grass yard you will have to be VERY carefull the body is very heavy, and could easily sink the stands into the grass and tip, I think a concrete pad is the minimum required

 

[Carlola]

I would install the entire drive train before setting the new body on. Remove the doors/trunk lid and maybe the seats. Anything to make the body lighter and easier to move. Definitely a task requiring a couple friends, especially if you don't have fancy lifts and such. Not something I would expect to accomplish over a weekend, even a full week would be tight.

If you are building up the new frame, yes it is a direct fit. The only difference may come in the transmission mount, find out what transmission you have and what the new one will be. No matter, it can be solved with an aftermarket crossmember. If you have a welder, or a friend with one, I would consider some reinforcements around the mounts. The factory welds are pretty shotty, even just going over them with a new bead will be a significant improvement. Just be sure to tack in some braces and take your time so as not to warp anything.

Also, depending on how bad your current rust problems are, there could be damage to your underbody mount locations. Are all your mounts still there? A lot of the times they will rott and fall out, especially the back few. It may be necessary to cut into the body from the inside to access the mounts and keep them from spinning while removing the bolts. Unless they all come out cleanly, which is pretty damn rare, this could turn into a big project really fast.