Front end squeak

[clean8485]

I would be removing the driveshaft, and checking both U joints for any binding or stiffness.

 

[Ernest]

Thanks, Ive chased other noises that were caused by cheap parts, brake pads come to mind. Big waste of time. Can’t remember what brand wheel bearings I went with. Guess I’ll give the Timkens a try.

Think about keeping a drivers log, so to speak... a small note pad to keep track of dates and mileage when doing fluid and parts changes, i do the same for my mailbu and my daily driver truck.

 

[86 Salon]

It's not your wheel bearings squeaking. If they were bad enough to squeak, the races and/or spindle would be shot and it would be obvious when you took them apart. They would grind, not squeak. When you adjust the bearings, the nut should not be finger tight. Spin the rotor and tighten the nut with channel locks to seat the bearings. Back off the nut, tighten finger tight and then back off to the first slot that lines up with one of the knuckle holes and install the cotter pin.

 

[ssn696]

How much brake pad do you have? I reread the thread, but I did not see this mentioned. When the pads are worn, there are springs that wrap around and will squeal when the pads are past replacement but before they go metal-to-metal, risk loss of braking and also destroy the rotors. The sound of the squeak will change as you speed up.

When you step on the brake pedal, the pads shift and the springs pull away enough to stop squeaking. If the noise stops that suggests this may be your problem. Pull off a wheel and look to see how thick the pad is and how close the edge of the spring is to the rotor.

Hope this is useful.

 

[Ugly1]

On line diagnosis is one of the hardest things to do. Basically you need to check any moving parts that happen when you’re in neutral test. We all have an idea but not being there makes it hard on you hearing others thoughts.
You know it’s speed related. You know it does it while in neutral. You need to break the car into different areas to check.
Drive shaft: u-joints, Rearend: axle/ brakes/ rubbing points. Front wheels: bearings/ brakes/ rubbing points. Do you have hubcaps? Temperature related?
Check for loose, tight, rust at u-joints.
Jack rear end up ( on jack stands!)does it happen in rear not under load( on ground). Check rear wheel bearings for play. Backing plates, rear brakes.
Check front wheels spinning tires as fast as possible not under load (off ground).If hub caps remove and try.
Have second person with you sit in rear then in front. To see if it is a specific side.
Basically isolate the squeak. Beats throwing money at it in hopes to fix it.
What I just had happen was what I thought was the water pump (which is bad!) squeak was the mechanical fuel pump that had a bad one way valve as well!

 

[Baker7888]

Thanks all. The weather turned here so the car is indoors for the winter. I did order new front bearings and races for next season. When i repacked the existing bearings, it went away, and then came back but is 90% better so I do believe it’s the bearings even though they do appear to be undamaged.

 

[79 USA 1]

This may be totally off the rails but apply a little white lithium grease to the rubber hood bumpers on the cowl. Has this happen on my El Camino years ago.

 

[Baker7888]

This may be totally off the rails but apply a little white lithium grease to the rubber hood bumpers on the cowl. Has this happen on my El Camino years ago.

I will try this. Thank you