Front suspension & Steering (Parts List)

[Wiz02]

I would also like to thank UNGN for the thorough summary of suspension options as I research the R&R of my 79 El Camino's suspension.

I would really appreciate getting some upper and lower control arm recommendations as UB Machine has quite a few options and it seems like new control arms address design flaws and you don't have to wrestle with bushing replacement.

My criteria is budget minded improved handling. I would like to keep the cost of R&R the front springs, control arms (new vs. replace bushings?), ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc. to well under $1000 while making some gains in the handling department.

I have 17x7" wheels with 4" backspacing up front ( 225/50 tires, 25.9" diam, tread width 7.9")

 

[ssn696]

Glad to see that this is a sticky. Hope we hear from UNGN again.

 

[ssn696]

You get what you pay for. Some inexpensive ones designed for circle track are marginally safe for extended street use. UMI and Southside support the Forum. UMI demonstrates their products on the track....

 

[Wiz02]

Thanks for the reply, and while I agree that you get what you pay for, please bear in mind that I'm not interested in turning my Elky into a track car. What I am looking for is an upgrade path that initially will allow the Elky to handle like a modern passenger vehicle and secondly stop like one (as I have factory replacement calipers, pads and drums that work OK by 1979 brake performance standards). Given that the Elky suspension is worn out, I'm planning a phased approach to to improve the handling on a budget. That will likely mean an initial approach of front suspension springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends and control arms in phase one. If I can get all of that done for under a grand, I will move onto brakes after the budget recovers. I'm going to talk to Mac at SouthSideMachinePerformance and get his input. I'll post up my plan after talking to him as I'm sure other folks are in the same position as me and can't cough up thousands for a total suspension rebuild in one shot.

 

[Griffin84ss]

Thanks for the reply, and while I agree that you get what you pay for, please bear in mind that I'm not interested in turning my Elky into a track car. What I am looking for is an upgrade path that initially will allow the Elky to handle like a modern passenger vehicle and secondly stop like one (as I have factory replacement calipers, pads and drums that work OK by 1979 brake performance standards). Given that the Elky suspension is worn out, I'm planning a phased approach to to improve the handling on a budget. That will likely mean an initial approach of front suspension springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends and control arms in phase one. If I can get all of that done for under a grand, I will move onto brakes after the budget recovers. I'm going to talk to Mac at SouthSideMachinePerformance and get his input. I'll post up my plan after talking to him as I'm sure other folks are in the same position as me and can't cough up thousands for a total suspension rebuild in one shot.

I'm in same boat as you are my Brother I will be watching for updates. Thank

 

[Santos123]

I can’t find pitman arm for my 1985 Oldsmobile delta88, would cutlass pitman fit

 

[MC96]

I can’t find pitman arm for my 1985 Oldsmobile delta88, would cutlass pitman fit

Edit: read this wrong.


No a delta 88 is a B body, all B bodys from 77-96 had the same front end parts. That being said, it is a non wear item and doesnt need replaced when revamping a front suspension / steering assembly

 

[69hurstolds]

I can’t find pitman arm for my 1985 Oldsmobile delta88, would cutlass pitman fit

No.

 

[Clarkwb100]

PST bushings are great for a driver. You need 4 upper control arm bushings and 4 lower control arm bushings. They have Tie Rods, too.

For the rest of the suspension, I would recommend for a "Daily Driver" to make it drive more like a modern car:

In Front you'll need:
Springs (AL LS1 or V6): Moog 5658 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Springs (Iron SB/AL head Big Block): Moog 5660 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Springs (Iron BB): Moog 5662 (put in first measure ride height, then removed and cut to perfect ride height after everything else put on)
Shocks: Bilsteins
Control Arm bushings: PST polygraphite Lower Control Arm bushings (4) (uppers, too (4) if you re-use stock upper control arms)
Maybe Upper Control Arms: G-body parts UB Machine Tubular will work fine with 17X8's, could have interference with smaller diameter 8" wheels and tall ball joints.
Bump stop: ZQ8 GM 15956547, Dorman 31064
ball joints: Proforged 1/2" taller Lower 101-10048 and Upper 101-10020 (Summit Racing)
sway bar and Sway bar bushing: Hollow 3rd gen F-body - Junkyard (34-36mm doesn't matter)
steering improvements: fast ratio box, u-joint steering shaft: 12.7 Ratio Steering box (from F41 car)(Rockauto), '93-95 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering shaft or modified Astro Van Shaft (Junkyard or G-bodyForum Members), New Inner/out tie rods if more than 60K miles (P-S-T).
Front End Alignment: Target .5 Degree Negative Camber, 5 degree Caster (or as much as can be done) and 1/16 - 1/8" Toe in.

If you want bigger brakes in front:
Spindles: 1998-2003 2wd Blazer - Junkyard
Brakes: 1998-2003 2wd Blazer dual piston 11" - Junkyard

For the frame:
Jounce bars From a Cutlass: Junkyard.
Grand Prix bar: Junkyard
adding the missing lower Frame mounts: Replace any Flat washers with 457915 Pink Lower Bushings

In Back:
springs: I would leave the stock and see how it handles
sway bar: A "pro touring" style rear sway bar
shocks: Bilsteins
control arms: Stock, with new bushings if needed

This would be for a driver. For something tracked I would do some things differently (like stiffer springs, solid lower control arm bushings, etc), but the above wish list will make the car drive/handle good (better than every stock "classic muscle car I have ever driven) and with good tires, not be embarrassing at an autocross.

A '78 will have SAE lugs unless they have been swapped so if you go to Blazer brakes in front, you may want to swap the studs in the rear axle to M12-1.5 so you don't have 2 different lug nuts

Great guidance, I did all the suggested changes except polygraphite was not available when I did my El Camino 4-5 years ago, used polyurethane. Also did KYB Gas-Adjust shocks all around. Played with the steering box adjustment, over about a year of small but meaningful adjustments, until it finally felt right. Biggest noticeable change though was the Blazer dual piston brake swap, I'd recommend this swap for all G-body owners.

 

[Ugly1]

To think I missed out on a front brake assembly for free last summer because I didn’t have time to deal with it 😢