Front suspension????

[UNGN]

!5X7's should not be a problem. Its only when you try to run 15X8's that things become a problem.

The '78 differences are generally stuff that bolts on the frame, not the frame itself. Stuff like goofy one year only spindles. Replace those with junkyard '98-03 2wd blazer spindles and you get modern sealed bearings, 2 piston calipers and spare parts at any autozone.

 

[mystre71]

!5X7's should not be a problem. Its only when you try to run 15X8's that things become a problem.

The '78 differences are generally stuff that bolts on the frame, not the frame itself. Stuff like goofy one year only spindles. Replace those with junkyard '98-03 2wd blazer spindles and you get modern sealed bearings, 2 piston calipers and spare parts at any autozone.

Thanks for all your time and help!

 

[Rapidride2]

Tall lower works with all cars, lowers the front end 3/4", reduces bumpsteer and will work with any wheels. Brake dust shield and LCA lip may need a little trimming but its minor.

Tall uppers can cause interference with smaller diameter wheels, especially 8" wheels. Even 16" wheels can have UCA interference when turning. 17" wheels and larger should be OK

Tall balljoints keep the wheel relatively vertical during suspension travel, and not have the backwards factory camber curve (negative camber on extention/Positive camber on compression).

All sports cars and most modern cars have camber curves similar to a tall baljoint G-body. I can't think of a car built in the last 25 years where the tires go to full negative camber when you jack up one side, like the factory geometry on a G body does.

This is my Tall balljoint 2+2 at full suspension droop. Note it has 1.0 degree negative degree of static camber so it should have even worse negative camber than a factory car when jacked up:

Jack up a factory ball joint car and let the wheels droop and they won't stay vertical (or be slightly positive) like this.

So are you saying if I plan on running 14'' or 15'' wheels it is best to run the tall lower ball-joint (p/n 101-10048) and a STOCK upper ball-joint to eliminate wheel interference?

 

[Rapidride2]

So are you saying if I plan on running 14'' or 15'' wheels it is best to run the tall lower ball-joint (p/n 101-10048) and a STOCK upper ball-joint to eliminate wheel interference?

Sorry,,,after further research i see it is possible to run the taller lower with the stock upper ball-joint with stock steel wheels.

 

[Macguyver]

The stage 2 Pro Series will dial in the geometry near perfect!

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/before-and-after-front-end-geometry-explained.70367/

 

[Rapidride2]

The stage 2 Pro Series will dial in the geometry near perfect!

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/before-and-after-front-end-geometry-explained.70367/

Okay, but will i be able to run the stock 14'' steel wheel with the tall upper balljoint without interference?

 

[paul.m]

The stage 2 Pro Series will dial in the geometry near perfect!

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/before-and-after-front-end-geometry-explained.70367/

WOW thats a lot of great info !Lot of things I didnt know.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

!5X7's should not be a problem. Its only when you try to run 15X8's that things become a problem.

The '78 differences are generally stuff that bolts on the frame, not the frame itself. Stuff like goofy one year only spindles. Replace those with junkyard '98-03 2wd blazer spindles and you get modern sealed bearings, 2 piston calipers and spare parts at any autozone.

The one main difference between years is that the pre 1984 frames lack the mounts for TH200-4R crossmembers.

 

[Macguyver]

Okay, but will i be able to run the stock 14'' steel wheel with the tall upper balljoint without interference?

Yes, The Stage 2 Pro Series will work with the stock 14" wheels.