Fuel filler neck instillation with solder?

[UC645]

Been poking around here and couldn’t find anything on installing a new filler neck with solder, so I figured I’d just ask:
Is installing a new fuel filler neck into a gas tank with silver solder the preferred method, or is there another way to do this?

Long story short I used a Cutlass tank for my MC, and the filler neck hangs down too far. Got a MC neck from a junkyard and that one was soldered in.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Soldering would be good but honestly I think most people just JB weld them in . That’s what i did on my Malibu tank and seems to be working fine

 

[78Delta88]

Had to do the same with my trans am ... Use the separate flux and coat in the area with the brush and heat with torch. As it starts to bubble, put the solder in. Takes a bit of practice but if done right, it will give solid and leak free connection.

Not sure on JB weld never used it for that application. However, there is a 2 part epoxy that is specifically formulated as a fuel resistant epoxy filler. I used that several times on fuel tanks and no leaks.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Mine is soldered in. Took the original neck and put it in my new EFI Tank when I did my swap.

 

[69hurstolds]

If you solder your own, or even if you farm it out, make sure the neck is marked at exactly 12 o'clock, or 6 o'clock, or pick one, before taking out the neck from the original tank. Same with marking the new tank in the same place. Don't need any slanted necks. A guy I used to work with had a Chevelle tank he did himself and fugged that up. More work for being inattentive the first time. Different G-bodies vary with wriggle room back there, but you can't get it too far off.

One no-doubter way to do it is remove old neck, slide in the neck, jack up the new tank into it's place under the car where it will finally be, and locate the neck where you want it and you can match mark it anywhere you want.

 

[UC645]

If you solder your own, or even if you farm it out, make sure the neck is marked at exactly 12 o'clock, or 6 o'clock, or pick one, before taking out the neck from the original tank. Same with marking the new tank in the same place. Don't need any slanted necks. A guy I used to work with had a Chevelle tank he did himself and fugged that up. More work for being inattentive the first time. Different G-bodies vary with wriggle room back there, but you can't get it too far off.

One no-doubter way to do it is remove old neck, slide in the neck, jack up the new tank into it's place under the car where it will finally be, and locate the neck where you want it and you can match mark it anywhere you want.

Wish I could say I’ve gotten that far.

Found out the hard way my current tank has its neck brazed in, monkey brain kicked in and I thought, “I can melt this brazing with a torch.”
No, no I couldn’t. Ended up melting a hole in the tank without even deforming the brazing.

Since I have to get a new tank, I’ll snag one without a neck and use the stock MC neck I have. And instead of sticking a sump on this one, I’m going to punch out the 1/4 return line in the sending unit and take a page out of 81cutlass’ book by sticking a -8an bulkhead fitting in there for a new pickup.


Does anyone know if Spectra’s GM3C tank is a baffled unit? Description says it has a pan but I’m not sure what that means. Listed for FI cars though.

 

[spongbob]

Im mentioning an applied method ,its called sectioning .It has to do with 2 radiator clamps and a short section on rubber hose .also good for neck leaks occasionally when needs be applied