Ok guys the motor is coming back out of the car. Been debating taking this time to switch to an elec fuel pump. What does the consensus say?
fuel pumps: mech vs elec
- Thread starter mebe007
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I copied this from a previous post. Keeping the mechanical pump is often the most sensible if you don't have big goals but if you are considering upgrading to an electric to save some HP and plan to use her as a street car..
One benefit of the g-body over older muscle cars is that some came with fuel injection. So the parts new & used are out there to cheaply and easily upgrade to a modern in-tank electric fuel pump setup (like a new Corvette has) using a used GN/Ttype/4.3TBI Monte tank & fuel pump hanger/sending unit or aftermarket replacement. No fabricating no welding.
New fuel tanks & sending units are available at http://www.eBaymotors.com for cheap just search keyword Grand National fuel tank.
Plug n play high performance fuel pump & wiring at http://WWW.racetronix.com. Click the Grand National pumps link.
If you are using a carberator you also need a return style fuel pressure regulator such as the Mallory 4309. You turn the fuel pressure up or down with a small allen wrench. http://www.jegs.com has pics & prices. Search keyword mallory 4309. They also have a 25 foot roll of aluminum 3/8" fuel line to run your return line for a few bucks. The pump & 3/8" line will support up to 600HP according to Racetronix and the line can easily be bent by hand and tied with zip ties or better if you prefer.
Your local autoparts should have an in line fuel filter for an early 90s 350 TPI Camaro in stock which is cheap n easy.
Its cheap easy safe and will last longer than the old conversion method of a noisy out of tank gravity fed electric pump & sump or cell. Like you commonly see on a home built drag car. Discrete & quiet as their is no pump hanging down between your tank and bumper waiting to turn you into a fireball the first time somebody doesn't see you stop.
I ran this exact setup on the 442 with a 509ci and 800cfm Q-jet. I mounted the fuel pressure regulator on the frame between the engine and the radiator. I put a T in with a line and a fuel pressure guage in between the regulator and the carberator so that I could mount the guage under my wiper blade on occation to be able to watch my fuel pressure running down the track. With the Q-jet I set my pressure at 5 1/4 psi and it would stay rock steady all the way down the track with never so much as a sput out of the motor as the carb bowl stayed full but not over pressurised. 3,800 pounds 110 mph.
You can also see pics of this setup on Bobs car at http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com. Bobs "road car" (455 Cutlass with overdrive & Q-jet) also ran low 12s at 110 mph in the quarter still tuneing before it was stolen.
One benefit of the g-body over older muscle cars is that some came with fuel injection. So the parts new & used are out there to cheaply and easily upgrade to a modern in-tank electric fuel pump setup (like a new Corvette has) using a used GN/Ttype/4.3TBI Monte tank & fuel pump hanger/sending unit or aftermarket replacement. No fabricating no welding.
New fuel tanks & sending units are available at http://www.eBaymotors.com for cheap just search keyword Grand National fuel tank.
Plug n play high performance fuel pump & wiring at http://WWW.racetronix.com. Click the Grand National pumps link.
If you are using a carberator you also need a return style fuel pressure regulator such as the Mallory 4309. You turn the fuel pressure up or down with a small allen wrench. http://www.jegs.com has pics & prices. Search keyword mallory 4309. They also have a 25 foot roll of aluminum 3/8" fuel line to run your return line for a few bucks. The pump & 3/8" line will support up to 600HP according to Racetronix and the line can easily be bent by hand and tied with zip ties or better if you prefer.
Your local autoparts should have an in line fuel filter for an early 90s 350 TPI Camaro in stock which is cheap n easy.
Its cheap easy safe and will last longer than the old conversion method of a noisy out of tank gravity fed electric pump & sump or cell. Like you commonly see on a home built drag car. Discrete & quiet as their is no pump hanging down between your tank and bumper waiting to turn you into a fireball the first time somebody doesn't see you stop.
I ran this exact setup on the 442 with a 509ci and 800cfm Q-jet. I mounted the fuel pressure regulator on the frame between the engine and the radiator. I put a T in with a line and a fuel pressure guage in between the regulator and the carberator so that I could mount the guage under my wiper blade on occation to be able to watch my fuel pressure running down the track. With the Q-jet I set my pressure at 5 1/4 psi and it would stay rock steady all the way down the track with never so much as a sput out of the motor as the carb bowl stayed full but not over pressurised. 3,800 pounds 110 mph.
You can also see pics of this setup on Bobs car at http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com. Bobs "road car" (455 Cutlass with overdrive & Q-jet) also ran low 12s at 110 mph in the quarter still tuneing before it was stolen.
1. Stick with a mechanical pump.
2. Weld in a sump and mount a gravity fed electric pump ideally functionally behind and below the tank. 🙁
The GN tanks have both a different fuel pump hanger/sending unit and a baffle to trap and hold fuel so that your pump does not come uncovered when cornering or accelerating when your fuel is low. If you run your tank you will need to weld & modify your existing hanger/sending unit and keep your tank full. If you can find an old GN Ttype or 4.3 TBI Monte in a salvage yard etc your can get the tank and hanger for next to nothing. But its hard to find one rust free and you can see by the link that you can get a brand new direct fit shiney rust free tank and sending unit for less than $200. On top of that its cheaper easier and safer than a gravity fed out of tank with sump or cell.
Its quiet no noisy wine of an out of tank electric.
Its discreet no tip off to the guy next to you at the light with a pump hanging behind your tank or fire hazzard from being rear ended.
you always have cold fresh fuel from the tank so no vapor lock from fuel being dead headed. Also not being dead headed pumps live a normal life like a new car.
2. Weld in a sump and mount a gravity fed electric pump ideally functionally behind and below the tank. 🙁
The GN tanks have both a different fuel pump hanger/sending unit and a baffle to trap and hold fuel so that your pump does not come uncovered when cornering or accelerating when your fuel is low. If you run your tank you will need to weld & modify your existing hanger/sending unit and keep your tank full. If you can find an old GN Ttype or 4.3 TBI Monte in a salvage yard etc your can get the tank and hanger for next to nothing. But its hard to find one rust free and you can see by the link that you can get a brand new direct fit shiney rust free tank and sending unit for less than $200. On top of that its cheaper easier and safer than a gravity fed out of tank with sump or cell.
Its quiet no noisy wine of an out of tank electric.
Its discreet no tip off to the guy next to you at the light with a pump hanging behind your tank or fire hazzard from being rear ended.
you always have cold fresh fuel from the tank so no vapor lock from fuel being dead headed. Also not being dead headed pumps live a normal life like a new car.
I have a 500+ HP motor that is a street/strip car and I am running the edelbrock performer mechanical fuel pump....A guy I know has a 600 HP street car with the same pump.....YOu don't need electric, unless your gonna spray the sh*t outa that car 8)
when i bought my elky it had both, but it also had the block off plate, so i took off the mech. pump and put o the block off plate. i like the electric pump because it adds 1 more thing i can use for theft prevention.
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