I might have a deal on a 12 bolt GM a body axle. Which axle do I need for a swap, the 64-67 axle or 68-72 axle? I know the lengths are different. Is one better/easier to swap?
G Body 12 Bolt Swap
- Thread starter joesregalproject
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The 64-67 is 2.5" wider than a G body rear...the 68-72 is 4.5" wider than a G body rear. The 64-67 needs conversion uppers and a joint at the axle side of the rears to pick up the angle. The brackets on the axle side are closer top the center of the raer end even though the rear end is wider. The 68-72 needs the conversion uppers and you can use the stock lowers. JBrue has the 68-72 version. I have a 67 and run 17x8 rims with 4.5" BS, 255-50 tires and I had to roll the fenders a little and he car is dropped a couple of inches. here's a picture to show the angle at the axle side ...I used UMI parts and they made the custom lowers for me with the Roto Joint, great guys to deal with and great parts
So if I buy this kit-
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/upi-301519-b
And the rear does turn out to be a 64-67, I will have a bolt-on swap? Given I will need a different driveshaft or have to modify mine.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/upi-301519-b
And the rear does turn out to be a 64-67, I will have a bolt-on swap? Given I will need a different driveshaft or have to modify mine.
For the drive shaft you'll need to get it cut 1". You might want to consider changing the yoke in the drive shaft so you won't have to get a conversion u joint. When you get the drive shaft cut keep in mind the drive shaft tube isn't too expensive so depending on the condition of your tube you might want to get a new one. After you get the drive shaft done mark the slip yoke and tube in case you ever remove the slip yoke. The drive shaft and slip yoke are balanced together so they need to stay in the same phase when the slip yoke is put back on. One other thing is the wheel studs, I reamed the holes in the axle flanges to put in the metric wheel studs.
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