With the 1 inch taller upper ball joints, what front springs would put it at or above stock ride height with a sbc but be pretty soft still?
G body rallycross build
- Thread starter Willyalexader90
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There isn't much room for 1" taller upper BJ's between the wheel/arms if you use 15" wheels (17's are perfect, wider 16's can still rub), which is why I would go with 1" taller Lower BJ's. The tall lower gives the car a little more effective spring travel, too, at equivalent ride heights and will reduce suspension bottoming.
For Springs, something like a 5606:
If you don't run a front sway bar, the front end will "feel" softer, so you can run stiffer springs. A 5660 would probably not be too stiff.
For Springs, something like a 5606:
If you don't run a front sway bar, the front end will "feel" softer, so you can run stiffer springs. A 5660 would probably not be too stiff.
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Would I be able to run a 15 inch wheel with the tall upper ball joints if they had like 3.5 inches of back spacing? I need to run 15s to get gravel rally tires on the car
With a 7" rim with 3.5 BS a tall upper will probably clear. but the arrm could be close to the wheel/tire.
Ive been rallycross a gbody for a couple years now. Mostly built out if junkyard parts. Car: 1983 Olds Cutlass w/olds403, th350 trans. I also use it for Gambler 500 rallies. I'm running kindve a goofy setup. I'm running 3"lift spindles in the front, stock ball joints, big block front springs, and a heavier then stick front swaybar of a f-body. In the back I'm running a torsen locker out of a 98 camaro, variable rate vista cruiser cargo springs(still not heavy enough, gonna switch to avalanche springs) plus 3" spacers, another heavier than stick swaybar in the rear out if an f-body, adjustable upper and lower rear control arms, And airshocks. 14" rims 28" tires front, 15" rims, 31" tires rear. One big upgrade that I found essential for rallycross is upgrading the seats. A set out of a Hyundai Genesis fit the bill!
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Tall front Ball joints will increase the negative camber on outside wheel, while decreasing the negative on the inside wheel, so both tires will help more to turn the car.
Because the tire geometry is helping the car turn, you need less sway bar/spring in front so a more bump absorbent front end will turn like a tighter/stiffer one that still had the stock suspension geometry.
My Miata, has a great camber curve (Neg on Compression, Positive on extension), but because I had elevated the ride height, even with the max static Neg camber the adjustments would allow, the car still had positive camber. On dirt it was hard to build up enough constant turning force to load the suspension enough to make negative camber to assist turning except, under hard braking + turning and the car understeered and handling was not very miata like.
I bought some longer lower ball joints, to turn the static Positive Camber into slightly negative camber, and now the car handles just like a Miata again, only 4" higher.
The moral to story is you'll really like better front suspension geometry that 1" more of spindle height will provide. The factory geometry is Positive on compression and Negative on extensions and is the exact opposite of ideal.
The Bonus Feeling of a car with a the right camber curve in front is that a raised car doesn't feel like its on tippy toes when you corner. Slightly neg static camber + a correct camber curve makes a raised car drive like a lower car.
Because the tire geometry is helping the car turn, you need less sway bar/spring in front so a more bump absorbent front end will turn like a tighter/stiffer one that still had the stock suspension geometry.
My Miata, has a great camber curve (Neg on Compression, Positive on extension), but because I had elevated the ride height, even with the max static Neg camber the adjustments would allow, the car still had positive camber. On dirt it was hard to build up enough constant turning force to load the suspension enough to make negative camber to assist turning except, under hard braking + turning and the car understeered and handling was not very miata like.
I bought some longer lower ball joints, to turn the static Positive Camber into slightly negative camber, and now the car handles just like a Miata again, only 4" higher.
The moral to story is you'll really like better front suspension geometry that 1" more of spindle height will provide. The factory geometry is Positive on compression and Negative on extensions and is the exact opposite of ideal.
The Bonus Feeling of a car with a the right camber curve in front is that a raised car doesn't feel like its on tippy toes when you corner. Slightly neg static camber + a correct camber curve makes a raised car drive like a lower car.
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