GM Starter Curse....

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85Frankencar

Greasemonkey
May 17, 2010
195
23
28
Indy
So I know this has been beaten to death and yes, I've googled it and done research...it's the same problem that's been plaguing me for years: GM starter curse. My problem is when the starter is actuated, it grinds and gets stuck (won't retract). I know what the proper clearances should be (should be able to stick a paperclip in there). It's a 168 tooth flywheel, the OEM starter is the offset style (engine is a 350 sbc our of a '91 P/U). When I originally got my car put together oh-so-long ago, it started up fine, no shims (from what I remember). Flexplate was new when it was installed on the engine, no chipped teeth, warping, etc. I got a new re-manu'd starter (made in Mexico instead of China) and had to swap trannies and that's where crap hit the fan.

I've shimmed it every which way to Sunday, got a summit mini starer (829100), had a machine shop make a shim for the collar (when first installed, there wasn't enough clearance between the pinion and flexplate, was right up on the flexplate, so I shimmed it back). Pinion to flexplate clearance was good, but again, when actuated, got stuck to the flywheel. Shimmed it every which way, still getting stuck to flywheel.

I have a starter tool so I can "start" it while under the car...haven't done anything in a while, but tonight I ran into something interesting: with the stock started re-installed (I did have the other "support" bracket installed), I hit the starter, it got stuck to the flywheel; actuated it again, it moved the flywheel; third time, it moved it and then almost completely retracted. This happened on a pretty consistent basis (80-90%) on 3 or 4 test tries (I know this isn't good for it, so I didn't do it a whole lot), so I'm wondering if maybe I could try getting a new pinion gear for the stock starter and grind it down 1/16"? This was the remaining portion that would get stuck on the flywheel when it retracted. Seems like the gears are meshing, but what I can't figure out is why they're sticking (or if there's not enough pinion/flexplate clearance?) I can't seem to hit that "sweet spot".

The other option I've considered is getting an original AC Delco starter from the junkyard or something and rebuilding it...when I've told people about my dilemma, they tell me they've never had that problem and they've always bolted up the starter and went (which is how my setup originally was). I've also read Powermaster starters are really good, but at this point I can't say I'm interested in spending another $150 + on another ministarter when I'm not 100% sure this will work either (or solve the problem).

Any input? Sorry for the long-winded post, but I'm at my wits end with this and want to be able to enjoy my car and get it back together :blam: - any input is appreciated.
 
if it was working originally with no shims then it will never need shims. I'd say the problem is with the starter and I'd get another one
 
Every starter is different. I bought 2 mini starters for my new motor from Jegs, the first one actually set to far back, almost two hundred thousands, got it replaced next one about one hundred eighty thousands, sent it back, changed to another brand and got it right. The proper clearance between front edge of starter teeth and flexplate teeth should between .60 & .140. according to instructions on both brands.
 
Starters should not be different and if they are it's a manufacturing problem. Buy a quality starter or a rebuilt and you not have any fitment problems
 
Thanks for the replies - I figured after trying 2 different starters, I was beginning to see a trend... :blam:
I just didn't know if there was any sort of trick besides shimming someone with more experience than me might have...worth a shot.
I contacted the local salvage place, they're getting me an original starter (they say it's the same) out of an mid-90s cargo van with 46K....we'll see what happens... :?

jociha said:
Every starter is different. I bought 2 mini starters for my new motor from Jegs, the first one actually set to far back, almost two hundred thousands, got it replaced next one about one hundred eighty thousands, sent it back, changed to another brand and got it right. The proper clearance between front edge of starter teeth and flexplate teeth should between .60 & .140. according to instructions on both brands.
That's pretty sad that QA issues with replacement parts is so bad - but I guess it doesn't matter if you can just get replaced and still make a buck. I have nothing against Jegs, but I learned the hard way too cheap-o mini starters aren't the way to go....
 
if you want a good mini starter get a stock gear reduction starter off of a 1998 vortec 350. You won't need any shims.
 
Thanks for the tip-I'll see how the OEM starter works out for me, I got a 30 day warranty with it...if Im still having problems, ill try the starter off the 98.
 
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