Gravity Bleeding Brakes

[bill]

Ive heard tell that this is a good, one man technique for bleeding brakes. I have tried all different ways of bleeding brakes. Will this way work? I have air in the system and I cant seem to get it out. And I rarely have someone to help me bleed it. So Im wondering if this method is a good one....? Thanks

 

[gp02a0083]

it can help, and will take a long time to do if your going that direction. I recently worked on my 86 cutty's brakes and used a tool that my father had from phoenix systems

Its a bit pricy but it will allow you to reverse bleed, vac bleed with only one person. I used this to ensure that i didn't have air in the system, then I gravity bled each corner for about an hour or so.

 

[megaladon6]

thats exactly what i would recommend.
but, there's also "speed bleeders" that go in place of the bleeders and act as a one way valve. i havent used them myself, but heard good things.
or you can try "short stroking" the pedal to force fluid down the lines--but it's a bit touchy. you have to use very short strokes, then let it sit and gravity bleed. obviously, keep an eye on the fluid level--almost forgot, you do this with the master open! otherwise the fluid will try to reverse direction. i usually pump for maybe 10sec, and sit for 30. but it's a last resort method.

 

[bill]

thats exactly what i would recommend.
but, there's also "speed bleeders" that go in place of the bleeders and act as a one way valve. i havent used them myself, but heard good things.
or you can try "short stroking" the pedal to force fluid down the lines--but it's a bit touchy. you have to use very short strokes, then let it sit and gravity bleed. obviously, keep an eye on the fluid level--almost forgot, you do this with the master open! otherwise the fluid will try to reverse direction. i usually pump for maybe 10sec, and sit for 30. but it's a last resort method.

I do leave the cap off, but when I push on the pedal, the fluid wants to squirt out of the M/C. And, I read in the Chiltons manual to start at the right rear, left rear, left front, right front...and to push the valve on the proportioning valve. Ive never heard of that procedure before. Thanks guys.....

 

[megaladon6]

you have to go in slow and short strokes to prevent the squirting. definitely follow the pattern, and pushing the prop valve will make the rears much faster.

 

[bill]

I just bled them again...in the correct order. The button on the prop valve wouldnt budge. However, after finding more air in the lines, mainly in the back, and changing the vacuum hose out with a stronger, non fuel line hose, Im back to fairly normal brakes again. Im still puzzled by the prop valve ... not sure what to do about it. But for now, I have good pedal pressure, good stopping distance and no hard pedal anymore. Thanks for the advice!

 

[TexasT]

Not sure how old your vehicle is but if you haven't replaced the old fluid it might not hurt to bleed until fresh starts coming out into your catch container. I used a little kit I got at my local auto part house that included a catch bottle with a magnet and some hose that attached to the bleeder and the bottle. The stuff that came out first was quite dirty looking so I just kept bleeding until much cleaner fluid came out. You just have to keep an eye on the master cylinder and keep adding fluid as you bleed it out. If you run it dry you get to start again. The orifice in the kit is quite tiny and the fluid I got out was needless to say dirty so I had to stop and blow compressed air back through the line as it got clogged up a few times.

 

[bill]

this is the 3rd time that Ive bled them in the last 6 months....the fluid is clean now. Thanks for the tip, none the less.

 

[AnimalGuy]

Im always by myself so I usually get a spare cap and put a tire valve stem in it. fill the res and put a couple pounds of air in it and use the pressure to bleed it. In proper order of course.

 

[gp02a0083]

Not sure how old your vehicle is but if you haven't replaced the old fluid it might not hurt to bleed until fresh starts coming out into your catch container. I used a little kit I got at my local auto part house that included a catch bottle with a magnet and some hose that attached to the bleeder and the bottle. The stuff that came out first was quite dirty looking so I just kept bleeding until much cleaner fluid came out. You just have to keep an eye on the master cylinder and keep adding fluid as you bleed it out. If you run it dry you get to start again. The orifice in the kit is quite tiny and the fluid I got out was needless to say dirty so I had to stop and blow compressed air back through the line as it got clogged up a few times.

that is what i did with my 86 cutty, i vac bled it until the fluid was clean , then i let it gravity bleed starting from the right rear , left rear , right front, and left front. I'd advise against pumping the brakes with the M/c open, usually this ends up being really messy and you run a good risk of introducing air into the system, same goes with gravity bleeding. Just make sure you don't run it dry or else you will have to take the MC off and bench bleed it