This motor is on my last nerve. What I have is a small block 350 bored .060 over with flat top hypertonic pistons I-beam rods and crank .010 under. Has a torker II intake and a holley 750 vacuum secondary. And just a regular hei distributor. The problem is that it won't run. I think I've tried just about everything I can think of. Tried filling the Carb bowls so I know that there is fuel going in it. Pull the plugs and watch them spark. And it has good compression. But still won't start and I know all the fuel that I dump through the intake burns. Now I just need some more ideas on what I can check for.
has spark has fuel but wont start
- Thread starter derek87cutty
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Yea wires are good along with the degree would a bad coil still give it spark but not enough to make it run
have you tried turning the dis as someone else is craking the car over. sonetimes they are a bit finicky
If it "kinda runs" on starting fluid I'd hazard a guess the gas isn't making fron the carb to the cylinders.
Roger.
Roger.
SPARK:
1. I'd start by making sure #1 is firing on COMPRESSION, then double check the wires for correct firing order. What you're describing sounds like 180 off and I've seen people beat their head against it many times over when they thought they were 100% sure it was timed correctly. I'm not doubting your mechanical aptitude but it never hurts to re-check.
TDC with #1 at compression, rotor firing on #1 terminal.
A faulty ignition module can cause this too. People think a spark is a spark right? Not necessarily. Worst comes to worst, you can pull the module and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.
FUEL:
2. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line to the carb, run a hose into a coffee can/jug or whatever and make sure you have fuel when it's cranking. If you're not getting anything to the carb, work backwards until you find the problem. I've seen dry-rotted fuel hose between the tank and hard lines cause this too. Of course, make sure you aren't just out of gas.
3. If you have fuel, make sure the filter is installed in the right flow direction.
VACUUM:
4. If that's not it, check for massive vacuum leaks (such as the brake booster outlet on the carb or PCV).
If none of that works, I'd be curious if the cam or timing chain is installed wrong.
1. I'd start by making sure #1 is firing on COMPRESSION, then double check the wires for correct firing order. What you're describing sounds like 180 off and I've seen people beat their head against it many times over when they thought they were 100% sure it was timed correctly. I'm not doubting your mechanical aptitude but it never hurts to re-check.
TDC with #1 at compression, rotor firing on #1 terminal.
A faulty ignition module can cause this too. People think a spark is a spark right? Not necessarily. Worst comes to worst, you can pull the module and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.
FUEL:
2. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet line to the carb, run a hose into a coffee can/jug or whatever and make sure you have fuel when it's cranking. If you're not getting anything to the carb, work backwards until you find the problem. I've seen dry-rotted fuel hose between the tank and hard lines cause this too. Of course, make sure you aren't just out of gas.
3. If you have fuel, make sure the filter is installed in the right flow direction.
VACUUM:
4. If that's not it, check for massive vacuum leaks (such as the brake booster outlet on the carb or PCV).
If none of that works, I'd be curious if the cam or timing chain is installed wrong.
Yes, definately pull number one plug, roll it over with your finger over the hole until you feel compression. At that point you can stick something rigid into the spark plug hole, like a screwdriver, or the likes. Roll it on over BY HAND!! until the piston stops pushing the screwdriver out of the hole. When you get to TDC, kinda roll it back and forth, with the screwdriver being your indicator, until you feel you are EXACTLY TDC. Check your timing marks. You may have a slipped elastomer ring or the wrong timing marks. If so, make new ones now. Pull your dizzy cap, verify your rotor location. Wire it accordingly. Clockwise, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, UNLESS you have a 7-4 swap cam, which we run in our race motors. Then it's 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2. Better harmonics. Did YOU build the motor? Did you have compression while rotating the engine over on the engine stand? You may have the cam 180 out too. Start your diagnostics simply. I had my *ss HANDED to me on a super trick Camaro the other day. I would check for spark, by pulling the coil wire out of the cap and it would run. Plug it in and it would die. Turned out the carbon tip was gone from the cap. Don't ask my why it would run with the wire pulled and held 3/8" away from the cap, but it did. We threw on a replacement cap and it runs like a champ. Also , if it's a fresh motor, with a flat tappet cam, you better figure this one out quick, or you will grind your new cam into the dirt. Roller cam? Your only issue will be wearing your starter out! Cheeres and let us know- Matt
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