Curious as to how you guys/gals are tightening these up without raising/lowering the engine? Is there something that I am missing, there is literally no room to get these back in. I honestly do not remember how I removed them in the first place. Only difference is that I added some exhaust wrap to the headers.
Header Bolts Near Firewall
- Thread starter tngbody
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Problematic spots might require different a different hardware approach. I've had more than one application where poor access warranted a stud/nut combo on select tubes vs a bolt.
I put exhaust wrap on my headers and it made it a bit more of pain. The driver side I was able to do it easily but for the passenger side I took a cheap harbor freight open ended wrench and cut it down to make it shorter.
Its not the tightest thing in the world but no exhaust leaks
Its not the tightest thing in the world but no exhaust leaks
I know its more work but those bolts are a lot easier to get at with the inner fenders removed. Did it that way on both of my cars. I get the car up on stands, climb under the fender opening and straddle the front rotor. I also bought an offset open end wrench.
Header bolts & spark plugs. I use a 3" hole saw for a well positioned port on the pass side usually. Drivers side doesn't hurt either but I can usually access everything on that side. I just use one of those plastic or chrome body style plugs to cover the hole up afterward. It's not necessary to cover up though.
It wasn't mentioned what the specific nature of the tightening issue was. If it's strictly the tightening of the rear bolts, the holes in the inner wheel tubs allow using a ratchet/socket & long extension. That's how I do those rear plugs.
I took a junk wrench and heated the middle and bent it 90 degrees, It better than cutting one because you still get good leverage on the wrench vs it just being a stubby.
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