Headers with a T56 ???

[88MONTESS]

What headers are you T56 guys running?

All the headers that I have viewed have footnotes not to use them on cars equipped with clutches :x I'm assuming that they have clutch cable clearance issues blah, etc... Any header suggestions that are known to work would be great.

 

[Doober]

What's the criteria? Engine? Mechanical? Hydraulic? What type of T56? Here are a few ideas...
a)The LS1 T56 can be used with a stock G-Body bellhousing/linkage via an adapter plate.
b)The LT1 T56 will need an adapter bellhousing, or you can use the stock bellhousing, a hydraulic clutch will be needed either way (should be able to use most headers here).
c)An aftermarket T56 will bolt up to the stock G-Body bellhousing without any special parts outside the correct clutch disc.
d)If you're running an LS motor odds are very good you'll need a hydraulic clutch regardless, I haven't found a bracket that locates the engine-side ballstud in the correct location (only one I've found is an adapter bracket for Corvettes that uses the 'forward' location).

Long story short, if you go hydraulic your header choices go up dramatically. Otherwise you'll have to use what's considered compatible for a stock engine/trans setup in a G-Body.

 

[Doober]

I found your other post with pictures. With a hydraulic clutch you should be able to run most headers, just pay close attention to the line to the slave cylinder, it may come quite close and necessitate something to keep heat away.

 

[86Cutlass383SR]

I'm running an Aftermarket T56 with my SBC. It started as a T5/SBC with the F-body hyd bell and master/slave. I am also running an F-body Hedman 1 5/8" shorty header for dual cats. Melted the plastic line going to the slave. Due to other issues, bought a new slave/master setup and re-routed line away from header. I personally never liked the hyd actuation plus my clutch was still slipping like it wasn't completely releasing the clutch. When I swapped the T5 for the Aftermarket T56, I went with the Lakewood bell for an 82-83 Camaro (15015) with the mechanical linkage and used stock A/G body clutch linkage. I, myself, like this setup much better. Re-used the same Camaro headers.

I'd like to find some 1 3/4" full length headers that will fit a manual transmission (that doesn't cost $500+ !!!). I don't see much point going from 1 5/8" shorty to 1 5/8" long tubes.

The hyd slave *can*, in some applications, pose fitment problems in some brands of headers. Best bet would be to run a hyd throw out bearing and run the line around the header. Then you would have the ability to run any header you wanted.

 

[Doober]

I'm not sure you'll find much that's cheap over 1 5/8", getting into big/race motor territory with that size, & price only goes up 😛

Personally I'm all for running mechanical linkage, but if I have to change my header/exhaust setup for emissions I may be forced to convert to hydraulic.

 

[86Cutlass383SR]

Depending on what state you're in and the testing requirements, I *may* have a solution for that. Hedman makes the air tubes that can be welded into your headers so you can hook the A.I.R. system to them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-22830/

These obviously wouldn't have an E.O. number, but it does "meet the spirit of the law" and allows retaining all emission equipment. They might let them slide. It'd be worth inquiring about to the testing agency beforehand.

 

[joey_schel]

I have full length flow techs with my LT1 t-56 setup, hydraulic clutch. Had to bang one of the tubes in just a little bit for clearance of the slave cylinder. here on the left:

 

[pontiacgp]

joey....if you use a hydraulic thro-out bearing that'll solve the problem with clearance on the slave cylinder

 

[86Cutlass383SR]

I finally got pics of my headers. In recap, I have the Hedman 68470 shortyheaders. These are for an 89 Camaro dual cat application. I did have to modify them to fit *my* car as I am running a non-stock oil pan.

The driver side header is pointed forward and inward so the driver side pipe can cross between the oil pan and crossmember. My pan was too close to the crossmember so I had my collector cut and rewelded straight down. That way I can run my duals straight back.

Here's pics of my drivers side header. The pass side is the normal (45* ?) angle and unmodified. Click on the thumbs...

 

[Doober]

I have a pair of those hangin' on the wall in the barn! I hated how the driver's side collector sat, and after the beating we gave them to get them to fit, I couldn't send 'em back to Summit I would've had it angled back like the passenger's side is, would definitely help with ground clearance.