I have Headers (No clue what size, type, etc.) on my Olds 350 that I tried tightening over and over but theres still a leak between the manifold and headers. I put 1 gasket, that didn't work, 2 gaskets, still doesn't work.....any suggestions?
Headers Wont Tighten
- Thread starter Esotericnem
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did you strip the bolt? Does the bolt keep turning with out tightening up?
If not try some ultra copper high heat silicone on the gasket.
If not try some ultra copper high heat silicone on the gasket.
Remove the headers and place the flange on a known flat surface. Is it bent? If not, then check the length of bolts, make sure they are long enough. And try it again. Sounds like they r either bent at the flange from overtightening or a bad weld where the tube seals against the gasket. Ultra Copper may work temp, but won't be permanent. I've done it b4 at the collector end and I still would burn it out. Stock engines will handle it a little better, though.
85t5mcss said:
Used to blow out header gaskets on my 500+ hp 406 all the time.
After using ultra copper, never blew another one.
try these they may solve your problem.Esotericnem said:
http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/80.htm
The headers shouldn't leak even with cheap gaskets if they are built and installed properly, so you'd better figure out the problem before spending big bucks on special gaskets.
First, have you checked the header flanges for flatness? Some headers have a weld bead around each port in the flange to provide a little extra clamping force. If your have the beads, check for nicks, gaps, and unevenness. Verify that the welds between the pipes and the flanges are in good shape and do not have gaps, pinholes, slag, or inclusions. Look closely for any residue that might indicate an exhaust leak.
Check the length of the bolts you're using to attach the headers to the motor. If they're too long, they can bottom out before the header is properly clamped.
Check the heads. Be sure the mating surface is flat and not pitted. Check that all gasket residue has been removed.
Finally, check that you have the correct headers and gaskets. Some later 307 motors used tiny exhaust ports and normal gaskets and headers won't seal properly. I suspect the opposite is also true - tiny port gaskets and headers probably won't seal on early 350 ports.
Assuming all this checks out good, get a quality set of embossed copper gaskets and reinstall. Get the motor hot and retorque the header bolts. Check frequently (at least every couple of weeks).
First, have you checked the header flanges for flatness? Some headers have a weld bead around each port in the flange to provide a little extra clamping force. If your have the beads, check for nicks, gaps, and unevenness. Verify that the welds between the pipes and the flanges are in good shape and do not have gaps, pinholes, slag, or inclusions. Look closely for any residue that might indicate an exhaust leak.
Check the length of the bolts you're using to attach the headers to the motor. If they're too long, they can bottom out before the header is properly clamped.
Check the heads. Be sure the mating surface is flat and not pitted. Check that all gasket residue has been removed.
Finally, check that you have the correct headers and gaskets. Some later 307 motors used tiny exhaust ports and normal gaskets and headers won't seal properly. I suspect the opposite is also true - tiny port gaskets and headers probably won't seal on early 350 ports.
Assuming all this checks out good, get a quality set of embossed copper gaskets and reinstall. Get the motor hot and retorque the header bolts. Check frequently (at least every couple of weeks).
How thick are the header flanges? If they are less than 3/8 in thick, they probably will never seal right because they can't support the clamping force needed to seal properly. I had an old set of cheap headers do this on my AMC. I swapped to a set of Hooker Super Comps and the problem went away.
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