Help indentifying G/N rearend

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So let me get this right before i go spending a lot of money for this swap. 1) I need a proportioning valve from a 4 wheel disc car. Where do i hook this up? Near the master cylinder like most cars where all 4 lines will go into it? 2) I also need a master cylinder for a 4 wheel disc car? Maybe a Firebird of the same era, say like a 87-88? Will this master cylinder bolt up to my brake booster? 3) I need to have my current drive shaft shortened or get one from a Grand National or other Gbody with a 8.5 rearend? Is there anything else that i am overlooking or forgetting? If anybody can help me with these questions i would greatly appreciate it :wink:
 
The difference is that the 4 wheel disc MC's don't have residual pressure valves, like drum brakes use. I know a 79'-81' TA 4 wheel disc master will fit, as I used one in my 81' Malibu. If you prefer the G-body equivilant, a later TA with the plastic reservoir will look correct, but I can't swear by the fit. "MOST" GM will interchange, unless someone knows differently. I looked on RockAuto and the prices ranged from $20 for a Cardone rebuilt to $175 for a new GM, for an 86' TA. As for proportioning valves, I don't know what the difference is, but the few parts places I found listed different #'s for disc and drum. Last time I looked they went for $60-$100 for a new brass one, which won't rust out like the iron originals. The frame location on a G-body is hell on them, F-bodies hung it under the MC.
 
I think I know what he's talking about the with the F-body prop valve hanging under the MC. It's basically held there by the lines attached to the MC and prop valve. I would think it'd be as simple as getting the lines and prop valve from the F-body, bolting them to the MC, then cut the stock lines, drop the fitting, and flare it so it matches up with the prop valve
 
Great! thanks for the replies and the help guys, I have an idea as to what to do now. I will let you know when i start the swap in a few months or so.
 
Actually there is a bracket that bolts to the two lower booster bolts. It in turn holds up the prop valve, you wouldn't want the brake lines taking the stress.
 
Ahh okay I understand. Yeah that wouldn't probably be the best idea
 
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