HELP!!!!!!!

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no it is not an o/d just a 3 speed automatic has something about metric on the bottom of the transmission thats all i really know about it though
 
That trans will probably not hold up long behind a 403. It will be fine for a while as long as you dont beat on it.
 
You have a TH 200 C then. It's a marginal transmission behind a Buick 231 V6, it won't last long behind a 403.
 
I'd personally recommend a turbo 350 or 400 at the time you do the swap. It usually works out to be easier to do the together then separate. Like Dan said it'll work for a while if your nice to it but hey, your not puttin a 403 in it to go slow right?! Whatever your decision, keep us posted 8) 8)
 
2 things. One the metric 200 will be destroyed the first time you try and enjoy the 403's tq. Get a th350, get it rebuilt for a bit more power than you're making, that way it'll be stronger than you need, and you'll have room to grow if you want.
As for everyone saying about an electric choke, a 307 DOES NOT have one, so disregard this. Just put the carb on and hook up the little tube sticking out of the manifold. Your hot air choke is fine. Unless you're buying a new carb, then by all means go for an electric choke.
 
dan2286 said:
88hurstolds said:
You will not be able to use the idiot lights, they are controlled by the computer. Plus the idiot lights do nothing for you to begin with. Also you will need to find a pre CCC HEI distributor from 74-79 I believe or the stock one from the 403.
If you are running a lock-up converter trans you will need to get a lockup kit from Summit or Jegs for the computer will not be able to lockup the trans anymore.

The computer does not control the idiot lights. It runs off of a completely different wiring harness. The only light the computer controls is the check engine light.

Yes, the check engine light or 'idiot light' is what I really ment. Probably shouldn't have put a plural on the word 'light'.
The temp light, bat, and oil pressure light lead directly to the gauges from the drivers side engine harness and are triggered by the sensors by low voltage so as long as you keep them there is no worry.
 
You should remove the check engine bulb or it will be on for ever....
 
82cutty said:
You should remove the check engine bulb or it will be on for ever....
Or you can do what I did and follow each wire from the computer back towards the fuse block and under the dash and remove them at the source, this will include the cruise, a few grounds and the check engine light. You will also wind up with two extra power wires that you can tuck away for future use with lighting or any creature comforts. I had the dash removed when I did this...
 
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