Hood Clearance?

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JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
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Central Illinois
I plopped the 5.3L in the El Camino today and I think we may have a problem with hood clearance. The engine came from a 2005 Tahoe and has the alternator mounted high on the driver's side of the engine. See the attached picture. It looks to me like the alternator and the top of the intake are higher than the fenders. I'm using engine mounts from Muscle Rods. Can anybody with this combination tell me if the hood will fit? Do I need to start looking for a hood scoop for clearance?

Thanks.
John
 

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The problem is the mounts, each mount is different and yield different results.

I'm unfamiliar with those particular mounts.

I do recall alot of people relocating the alternator for clearance, seems like the truck intake clears some, doesn't clear others. Comes down to the geometry of the mounts.
 
Maybe check the wrecking yards to see the variety of mounting stock mounting systems out there if you want to go that way.Then there are the aftermarket ones such as March as well.
 
As Jake alluded to the problem is your mounts. Throw them away and get the Holley mounts. This will fix your issue.

From Holley….

Requires the use of stock style small block Chevy clamshell mounts. Use only small block Chevy frame stands. Big block stands will not work. Moves transmission 1 1/4 in. forward and 1/2 in. up from stock location. These brackets are designed to achieve optimized component clearances and drivetrain operation angles in this application when used in conjunction with the Hooker transmission crossmember, headers, and exhaust systems co-developed for this application.

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When I went through this same dilemma, the best thing I could have done was actually bolt the hood back on and test it. I looked at the edge of the fenders, and the alternator looked way too high. When I put the hood on though, it closed, no problem. The only thing I couldn't do was put the beauty cover on. I'm also using Holley mounts, but I would try the hood first.
 
What oil pan do you have? The muscle rods one is based around a car LS intake and alt setup from my understanding and doesn't directly clear the hood. The muscle rods kit uses a H3/colorado v8 pan which is about as thick in the front as a stock tahoe pan. If at full steering lock the oil pan BARELY clears the inner tie rod AND you swap to the small case alternator (think regular cab long bed 06 silverado with no options) and trim the hood reinforcement slightly it will clear the stock hood.

I have the small case alt with home made mounts that cleared the stock truck pan. I also trimmed the inner hood reinforcement. The alt will sit above the fender line but the hood is arched and clears.

If the inner tie rods have significant space to the oil pan at full steering lock it's too high for the SUV/pickup accessories. If you swap from the high output alt you have to the smaller one (if the tie rod to oil pan clearance is very small!) and possibly trim the inner bracing slightly it will fit.


EDIT:

I forgot to mention,

Do you plan to run AC? If you do, the engine placement becomes critical if you want to run the stock truck (actually V8 trail blazer gmt360 chassis compressor).


The muscle rods kit is kinda a boner in that the v8 colorado oil pan that comes in the kit is a very moderate improvement over the stock tahoe pan, so little improvement that it's almost worthless to swap in my eyes.

The holley 302-2, the 'whitebox' knockoff 302-2, super street performance or other improved front clearance pans, or CTS-V pan are all better pan options.
 
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Just buy the Holley pan and mounts so you don’t have to compromise with hacking, fab work and a small alternator.
Maybe he doesn’t have the money. I agree that the Holley stuff will work perfectly, but 300 smackaroos for an oil pan blows imho.

Holley makes one budget LS swap piece - Terminator x Max. After that, the budget is out the window.

I’m running AllStar Performance swap mounts ($70), a stock ‘08 Tahoe oil pan that hangs an 1 1/2” below the crossmember and I had to grind on the top of the alternator for stock hood clearance on an ‘84 MC. About 1/8” of aluminum case off the alternator.

Now, if he has the money, go Holley crazy and buy all of their stuff - it DEFINITELY works 🙂
 

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The money spent on the Holley parts is a drop in the bucket compared to the risk of hanging an oil pan below the crossmember and all the other fitment issues caused by crappy motor mounts. Some people do it because they want to cheap out on the swap but that’s what makes an LS swap a hack job in my book. Do it right the first time! A hacked swap will detract from the value of your car.
 
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ICT billet are an alternative to the Holley, alot of guys run them and like them, plus they maintain factory clamshell style mounts. But a different oil pan is highly recommended due to how low a factory truck pan hangs.

Edit: and the ICT brackets have 3 mounting positions so you can adjust for clearances. And they are cheap, I think last I looked they are $40 or so..

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