how many cfm elec. fan for 403 , flat tops, mild cam

Status
Not open for further replies.
Where did you get the 8000 cfm for the Mark VIII from?
multiple threads over at pro-touring forums but this is the single HUGE fan, not the dual fans. i think the dual ford are about the same as the dual dodge fans, somewhere around 4-5k max.
Even at that most aftermarket fans flow less than what they say they do.
honestly, i think this is all fans. they probably test them totally unrestricted. throw the radiator in front and you get major losses.
 
megaladon6 said:
Where did you get the 8000 cfm for the Mark VIII from?
multiple threads over at pro-touring forums but this is the single HUGE fan, not the dual fans. i think the dual ford are about the same as the dual dodge fans, somewhere around 4-5k max.
Even at that most aftermarket fans flow less than what they say they do.
honestly, i think this is all fans. they probably test them totally unrestricted. throw the radiator in front and you get major losses.

This is true. Almost all electric fans are tested with zero restriction. However the other big issue is the fan motor's themselves. I read an article in one of the big car mags (Car Craft, PHR, Hot Rod) that said for every 1000cfm of "CLAIMED" air flow, the fan motor should be pulling 10 amps.

In the case of my Derale fans, and the reason I bought them was that their cfm ratings matched with their amp ratings. If anything, their CFM rating was actually less than what the motor amps add up to.
Each motor draws 25 amps which according to the article would be indicative of a fan pulling 5000cfm. However they list the fans at 4000+ for the pair.

Now if you look at some of those cheap fans out there claiming to pull 2500cfm most of their amp ratings are only around 10-15amps which means they likely flow a lot less than they advertise even before sticking them behind a radiator. 🙁

This along with people not using a proper shroud that covers the entire radiator is why so many have problems with cooling with electric fans, in my opinion.

This is also one reason why I find it can be much easier to use a factory electric fan setup. You know they've done their homework to make sure they pull enough cfm to reliably cool an engine day in and day out.

I do know that the fan setup I have now is pulling as much air as my LT1 fan setup that I used to have if not a lot more as I've walked and stood in front of the car when they kick on and can feel my sweat pants get sucked towards the grille. :lol:
 
This is also one reason why I find it can be much easier to use a factory electric fan setup. You know they've done their homework to make sure they pull enough cfm to reliably cool an engine day in and day out.
exactly! and they're usually be overengineered
 
fwiw fans are much more effective mounted as pullers. They can suck heat or hot air out from the fins much better than they can push it out with cool air. If you are moving good with good shrouding and your motor is not hot cool air from moving is often enough flow through your radiator fins to keep it cool without the fan. So your fan should be able to shut off and save you power & fuel. Flex-a-lite says peaks up to 17 HP but I bet that is against an old non clutch fan. I doubt its rarely ever that much except in like an acceleration contest. Once the radiator is really hot & the air in the fins becomes very hot it needs to be sucked out pushing it won't cut it. A lot of people have a hard time grasping that. Additionally if you have a high stall non lockup transmission torque converter and have your transmission cooling running though your radiator it can and will put a substantial amount of heat into your radiator. Or if you ever plan to pull a trailer which I had considered an occasional pull of my GN on a dolly just for the fun of getting two cars to a show or race.

If you have a shroud that covers the whole radiator then you can suck heat out of or through all of it fully taking advantage of all of your radiator. For cooling my 10-1 509 inside a rather small gbody engine bay with AC & heat both taking up more of the engine bay and putting load on the cooling system I chose double diagonally mounted 13.5" fans sold by flex-a-lite. It has great controls high & low speeds tied into the AC etc. 40 amp in conjunction with my electric fuel pump, stereo, & lights, required at the time a rebuild ie 90 amp max build up of my factory alternator & low speed pulley to keep up. Today better alternator options are known. 2740 to 4600 cfm it was made to cool a 1/2 pick up and only once during break in when we went the wrong way with the timing and started to heat the headers did it ever push the system. The thermostat didn't climb but wow did the fast moving air get hot for a minute. Today on the cheap I might use some factory electrics from the salvage yard. Some of the minivans with rear AC are good strong dual fans that fit our gbodys well.
 
This is a non ac car. If the clutch fan really steal 20 hp or more it would be well worth it to find some electric fan:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor